How to Build a Mortared Stone Fence

Build the Foundation

• 1

  Excavate a trench for the foundation, or footing. The inflexible nature of this type of fence requires protection against frost heave, so the bottom of the foundation must extend below the frost line. The concrete foundation should be as deep as the fence is thick, and extend about a foot in front of and behind the fence.

• 2

  Create or locate forms to contain the poured concrete. A set of forms can be constructed using 3/4-inch plywood nailed to 2x4 studs. The forms should extend from the base of the foundation to about 3 inches above the top of the planned foundation.

• 3

  Oil the forms with a lubricant intended expressly for concrete forms or motor oil.

• 4

  Place the forms in the excavated trench. Nail the forms together at each corner, if needed. Brace the forms in position using wooden stakes and 2x4s, so that they are firmly in place and will not buckle or shift when concrete is poured.

• 5

  Pour concrete into the form. Level the top of the concrete with a wooden board or trowel. Let the concrete cure for about a week before continuing fence construction.

Build the Fence

• 6

  Set up guide lines and mark the planned fence edges on the foundation. Stretch out a chalk line and snap it against the poured concrete to mark wall borders. Pound wooden stakes into the ground at the ends of the fence and tie level strings between them. The level strings should be moved up, as the fence is built to serve as a guide for each course of stones.

• 7

  Prepare the stones for the first course. Place them, without mortar, in their planned positions within the chalk outline on the foundation. Place large bond stones that span the width of the fence in the corners or ends, and every 4 to 6 feet along the length of the fence. Fill in the area between these large stones with smaller ones, ideally 2-thick with some space for mortar and rubble in the center space. The flattest side of each stone should face downward. Remove the stones from the footing, set them in their relative positions next to the foundation and ensure the stones are clean and dry.

• 8

  Spread a layer of mortar 1 to 2 inches thick within the fence outline on the footing. Work in small sections, mortaring only about 4 feet at a time.

• 9

  Set stones in their planned positions. Wiggle stones gently when placing them, and tap each stone lightly with the trowel handle to force air bubbles out of the mortar. Ensure, using the string guides, that the stones are level. Make adjustments as needed by adding mortar under stones or pushing down on stones.

• 10

  Pack mortar between the stones using a downward flicking motion with a mortar-laden trowel.

• 11

  Mortar and set stones section by section, until the entire first course is completed.

• 12

  Prepare the next layer of stones. Dry-fit the next layer by setting stones in their planned locations on top of the first course. Stagger bond stone placement between courses and ensure vertical joints are staggered, so that a single stone is set over where two stones come together below it. Adjust the guide strings for the second course. Set the stones aside, keeping them in their planned relative positions.

• 13

  Lay the next course. Spread 1 to 2 inches of mortar over a few feet of the first course; place the stones in the mortar, then check for level and fill in joints between the stones. Continue working in small sections to complete the second course.

• 14

  Continue building the fence, course by course, until the planned height is reached.

• 15

  Place capstones on the fence, if desired. Capstones are generally thin, flat rocks that extend the entire width of the fence and may be cut to have square edges that enable a tighter, uniform fit. Capstones can give the fence a more finished appearance, while also protecting the fence from weather. Make a level inch-thick layer of mortar on top of the fence; place the capstones on top of the mortar. Check for level, then adjust the capstones and mortar between the joints. Once the mortar has dried slightly, tool the mortar for a more finished look.