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Step-by-Step Pergola Instructions

Create a space that separates outdoor areas without a sense of being fenced in. Build a pergola to have a place for rest and entertainment or as a transition between garden areas. Classical columns create a sense of grandeur; overhead slats provide shade. Place your pergola in an open yard or even against your house. The structure's simple design defines an area without hemming it in and makes it easy to place anywhere.

Things You'll Need

  • Six 8-inches by 8 foot fiberglass columns
  • Six 16-inches concrete tube forms
  • Four 16-foot 2 x 8 beams
  • Seven 8-foot 2 x 6 beams
  • Six 50-inch 4 x 4 pressure-treated blocks
  • Gravel
  • Concrete
  • Glue
  • J-bolts
  • Threaded metal rods
  • Coupler nuts
  • Masonry screws
  • Paintable caulk
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Instructions

  1. Layout and Construction

    • 1

      Create a 12-feet wide by 8-feet high columned pergola with a 16-feet main beams/cross beams structure. Dig six holes for concrete forms. Put in a layer of gravel; set and brace the forms. Make all the piers the same height. Pour cement into each form; center a ½-inch by 6-inch J-bolt in the wet concrete. The bolt is plumb and rises 1-3/4 inches to 2-inches above the concrete surface. Follow manufacturer instructions to smooth out the surface of the piers.

    • 2

      Cut the four main beams 192 inches lengthwise. Cut the seven cross beams 96 inches lengthwise. Use cardboard patterns to mark decorative shapes onto the beam ends. Use a jigsaw, coping saw or band saw to shape the beam ends. Sand the cuts smooth.

    • 3

      Cut six 4 by 4 blocks to 8 inches long. Lay each block flat. Drill a 9/16-inch diameter hole through the center. Cover the ends of the blocks and the insides of the holes with wood preservative. These blocks are the main structural connecting points for the pergola.

    • 4

      Apply waterproof wood glue to the side faces of the blocks. Sandwich the blocks between the main beams and fasten the assemblies with glue and nails. Flush the blocks with the bottoms of the beams. Clamp the assembly. Nail the beams to the blocks. Drive four nails on each side. Avoid the center hole of the block. Let the glue completely dry.

    • 5

      Prepare and set the columns. Cut threaded rods 99 inches lengthwise. Attach a rust resistant coupler nut to each J-bolt. Slide the base, the lower port of the column and the capital, the top part of the column, over the ends of the column shafts. Run the threaded rod through the center of each column.

    • 6

      Center each column on top of a pier. Set the main beams one at a time onto the columns. Put the rod ends through the blocks. Attach bearing plates and nuts to the end of each threaded rod. Put a 2-foot level along the bottom of the column shaft. Hold the column plumb while an assistant tightens the rod nut. Adjust and secure the other columns.

    • 7

      Place each cross beam on top of the main beams. Cross beams must hang equally at both ends. Mark each edge where the main beam meets the cross beam. Number the cross beams to install later in the same order. Mark notches for cutting at 2-1/2 inches deep. Cut the notches using a circular saw or handsaw. Use a chisel to remove the waste and smooth the seat of the notches. Set the cross beams onto the main beams following the marked layout. Fasten the cross beams with 2-1/2 inch screws.

    • 8

      Secure each column base to a pier with rust-resistant masonry screws. Fit each capital against the main beam. Caulk the joints around the capital and base with paintable caulk. Paint the columns and beams (optional).