Installing Porch Railings

Purchase a fence package from your local home builder's store. The package includes all the fence's parts, including the posts, post skirts, balusters, connectors and rails. Many packages also include the necessary screws and bolts. If your package does not, read the manufacturer's directions and purchase the recommended hardware.

Place a steel surface-mounted pole in your porch's starting corner. Measure down 6 feet from the first steel pole's center and center a second steel pole on that mark. Measure 6 feet down from the second post's center and center a third post at this mark. Work your way around the porch. Drive 1-inch stainless steel screws through the steel poles' screw holes to secure them to the deck.

Slide a post skirt over each steel pole, followed by a post sleeve. Measure the distance between each post sleeve and transfer this measurement to the top and bottom rails. If necessary, use a circular saw to remove equal amounts from each end to match the required length. Push a kicker picket into the hole in the bottom of each bottom rail. Make sure the hole in the kicker picket points in toward the porch before you push it in the rail.

Slide a rail bracket on each of the bottom rail's ends. Position the bottom rail between the first two posts, allowing it to rest on the kicker picket. Use a level to make sure the bottom rail is straight and square between the posts. Mark the brackets' screw holes and remove the brackets from the post. Drill one-quarter-inch pilot holes through each screw hole marking and then align the brackets over the pilot holes. Drive a provided screw through each of the rail brackets' screw holes to secure the bottom rail in place.

Insert a baluster into each hole in the bottom rail's top edge. Some balusters require connectors. Mount connectors to the top and bottom rails with a provided screw, then insert the balusters into the connectors in the bottom rail. Give the balusters extra hold by running a bead of construction adhesive along the balusters' inside, bottom edges.

Slide a mounting bracket on each of the top rails' ends. Lower the top rail onto the balusters and push down firmly. Use a level to make sure the top rail is straight and square. Slide the brackets down and push them against the posts. Mark the bracket's screw holes and slide them away from the posts. Drill one-quarter-inch pilot holes through each screw hole mark and then slide the brackets back against the posts and secure them in place with a provided screws.

Hold a level against a baluster. Adjust the top or bottom rail slightly to straighten the baluster. Drive a provided screw through the brackets' sides and into the top and bottom rail to hold the entire panel in place.

Cut the top rail caps 1 1/2 inches longer than the top and bottom rails with a circular saw. Remove the top rail cap's insert and lay it on the top rail. Drive a supplied screw through each of the top rail cap's screw holes. Apply a bead of construction adhesive down the insert's length and push the cap rail on top it. Skip this step if your fence does not come with a top rail cap.

Run a bead of construction adhesive along the post caps' inside, bottom edges. Push them firmly down onto the posts. Use a damp rag to wipe away any extra adhesive that oozes out from underneath the caps.