Wipe off the pavers, and place them on a sturdy work table. You may use any style of paver for this project, but choosing pavers that are all the same thickness will make it easier when it comes time to build the patio.
Collect an assortment of ceramic tile pieces, either from new 4-by-4-inch squares that you break yourself or pieces left over from other projects. Collect additional accents such as half-marbles or pretty stones. To break new tiles, put them into a garbage bag and hit them with a hammer, wearing safety glasses.
Arrange broken tile pieces in a design on top of each paver. One design option is to arrange pieces of one color around the edges, and fill in with pieces of a second, contrasting color. Create designs, such as a sun or leaf, or an abstract pattern. Children might enjoy making their initials in mosaic.
Shape tile pieces as needed with tile nippers; this tool is available at home improvement stores. Grip the handles, place the tile you wish to cut in the edge of the jaws, and squeeze firmly to break the tile. Always wear safety glasses, as shards can fly in any direction. Save all scraps to fill in gaps between larger pieces.
Mix mortar according to package directions, wearing a dust mask. Pick up each tile piece and "butter" the back of it with mortar, then press it back onto the paver. Craft sticks work well for this part of the job. Let the mortar dry for 24 hours.
Mix sanded grout according to package directions. Spread grout on the pavers, making sure to push it into all crevices and around the edges. Use a grout float or a stiff piece of cardboard to remove most of the excess grout from the surface of the pavers. Let sit for about 30 minutes, then wipe off the tops with a grout sponge dipped in a bucket of water and then wrung out. Replace the water when it begins to look muddy. Let the grout harden for a couple of hours, then buff the tile surfaces with a clean rag to remove any remaining grout haze. Apply a spray sealer over the mosaic pavers.
Drive wooden stakes into the ground at the corners of the proposed patio, and tie string around the stakes to define the shape. Excavate the area inside the string boundary with a shovel to a depth of 6 inches.
Add 2 inches of gravel inside the excavated area, and rake it smooth. Tamp down the gravel. Use a level to make sure the surface slopes very slightly away from your house.
Cut two-by-fours to make a border all around the patio boundary. Hold them in place with stakes driven into the ground on the outside of the boards.
Lay down landscape fabric inside the boards to act as a weed suppressor. Hold it in place with landscape pins. If you need to use more than one length of fabric, overlap them by at least 6 inches.
Add 2 inches of gravel inside the excavated area, and rake it smooth. Tamp down the gravel. Use a level to make sure the surface slopes very slightly away from your house.
Add sand on top of the gravel to a depth of 2 inches. Do not tamp down the sand.
Lay out your finished mosaic pavers. For a uniform edge all around the patio, start with a border of pavers all the same size, then fill in with other shapes and sizes. Wiggle each paver firmly into the sand to set it in place, lay a scrap of two-by-four over the top, and tap the board lightly with a rubber mallet to set the paver. Keep the spaces between pavers at about ¼ inch. If a space between mosaic pavers is larger, don't panic; you can fill in with chips and small stones.
Pour more sand over the top of the entire patio, and sweep it into all the crevices between pavers. Lightly spray with water to set the sand. The next day, sweep more sand into any crevices where the sand has settled.