How to Build a Tilt-Out Laundry Storage in a Hallway

Run a stud finder over the hallway wall in the general area convenient for a tilt-out laundry storage bin. You need an area in the lower third of the wall that is free from electrical outlets and wiring, air ducts or plumbing. A portion of the hallway wall that backs to either a full bathroom or a bedroom is ideal.

Mark the inside edges of studs with a pencil from 2 1/2 inches above the baseboard extending up 24 inches. Draw horizontal lines straight across between the studs at these points to mark the top and bottom of your hamper.

Cut the hallway drywall along those lines with a reciprocating saw, starting in the center at the top and moving toward one of the upright studs. Turn the saw and go straight down the inside edge of the stud, without cutting into it. Go across the bottom line and up the inside edge of the other stud and turn to meet the starting point. Repeat to cut out the backing drywall to open the cavity to both rooms.

Measure the actual distance between your upright studs. Studs are usually 16 inches apart, measured from the centers of the 1 1/2-inch wide faces of the studs, which leaves 14 1/2 inches between the studs.

Cut two pieces of 1/2-inch plywood 7 inches wide and 14 1/2 inches long, or whatever your measurement is, with a circular saw, and cut two pieces 7 inches wide and 23 inches long.

Sand the edges of the plywood with medium-grit sandpaper or a sanding block to remove any rough edges.

Assemble the plywood into a rectangle with the ends of the 14 1/2-inch pieces overlapping the ends of the 23-inch pieces and flush with their flat sides. Nail the 14 1/2 pieces into the ends of the 23 1/2-inch pieces with 3 to 4 evenly spaced 2d nails.

Slide the open box into the space between the studs. Arrange it so there is 3/4 inch of wood extending from the wall on both the hallway side and in the other room. The combined depth of the 3 1/2-inch wall stud and 1/2-inch depth of the wall board on each side provides a nice deep space to accommodate the laundry.

Nail the upright sides of the box into the studs on both sides, each with four evenly spaced 2d nails.

Cut four pieces of 1-by-3-inch lumber to 23 inches long and four pieces to 19 1/2 inches long with a circular saw.

Fit one of the 19 1/2-inch pieces between the baseboard trim and the bottom lip of the hamper box on the hall side of the wall. Its face should be flush with the edge of the box as a 1-by-3 is 3/4 inches thick. Arrange it so 2 1/2 inches extend past each side of the box. Nail it in place on each side, into the stud with 1-inch finish nails. Countersink the finish nails with a nailset.

Butt the ends of the 23-inch pieces of 1-by-3-inch lumber to the edges of the bottom piece extending on either side of the box and snug against the 3/4-inch lip along the sides of the box. Nail the pieces to the studs with four evenly spaced finish nails. Put the second short piece across the top of the box, flush with the outside edges of the upright pieces and the upper lip of the box. Nail it in place on the studs on either side.

Repeat the previous two steps around the lip of the box extending from the other side of the wall.

Cut two pieces of 1/2-inch plywood to 16 by 24 inches with a circular saw. Sand the face and edges of the cut plywood. These will be the doors of the tilt-out laundry hamper.

Attach magnetic catches on the inside of the upper edges of the box, one on the right edge and one on the left and install into the top edge of the interior of the box according to the manufacturer's instructions. Repeat on the opening on the other side of the wall.

Attach two 3/8-inch inset hinges on each side of the bottom edge of the box, on each side of the wall, with the included screws and the appropriate screwdriver. Set the bottom edge of the door into the wrap-around part of the hinge and screw it into the outside of the door with the included screws.

Mark the points where the side of the magnetic catches contact the inside of the door. Attach the other halves of the catches on the inside of the door with the included hardware.

Repeat the previous two steps on the other side of the wall. Attach handles to the centers of the top edge on each door. Finish the trim and doors as desired.