A Leaking Trailer Roof

First Things First

• Trailers are largely manufactured using composite board; this material can separate after one good soaking -- it does not have to rot to fail -- so preventing water incursion is vital. If possible, cover the trailer with a tarp, even if there is rain and the job is difficult, which can save a great deal of subsequent work. Use all sensible precautions when climbing ladders and walking on roofs in inclement weather, and never put property safety above personal safety. If you can't prevent incursion, locate bowls under leaks so the water is at least captured before it sinks into floors and floor coverings. The use of a dehumidifier inside the trailer to dry out the structure and the atmosphere is also recommended.

Determine the Roofing Material

• Older trailers have rubber roofs; newer ones typically use EPDM, a material synthesized from ethylene, propylene and Diene Monomer. These two types of roofs cannot be repaired with the same materials. If you are unsure what the leaking roof is made from, remove a small section (half the size of your palm is more than enough), and take it to a home repair warehouse. Consult with a member of staff that works in the contractors' area; these expert employees can recognize and identify the roofing material and recommend suitable products for the repair.

Determine the Source of the Leak

• Often, simply looking at the roof can reveal the source of the incursion. A tree limb may have fallen on the roof and caused a puncture. Previous owners may have daubed silicone sealant over a seam or created a patch. Beyond the obvious, certain locations on trailer roofs are notorious for leaking, and they should be inspected next. Check around any component that emerges from a hole in the roof, such as flues from propane-burning appliances, stench pipes from holding tanks and roof vents that open on hinges. Ladders and luggage racks that are screwed to the roof are vulnerable as are the seals around air conditioner units. Thresholds between roof panels and side panels are usually trimmed with a strip that appears to be ornamental; in fact, these strips typically serve a dual purpose as a waterproofer also, so if they come loose a leak can occur behind them.

Repairing a Small Leak or a Ruptured Seam

• Microsealant tapes that can be applied even in the rain or under pond water are available in widths between 1 and 6 inches and in lengths of up to 50 feet per roll; these self-adhesive tapes are simply unfurled over a leaking seam or seal and pressed into place by hand.

After Sealing the Leak

• If the problem was caught the first time it leaked, there is likely to be no further damage to the trailer than that which can be seen with the naked eye; ceilings may need to be re-secured or replaced, for instance, or damaged wall decorations made good. If any fuses or circuit breakers deployed during the leak, ensure that all standing water has been removed from the structure before reinstating electrical power. If the leak has been ongoing and unnoticed, there is a distinct possibility that permanent damage has been done to the roofing substrate. Even if you must remove a now-serviceable repair, lift away the roofing material and replace any wood that retains moisture or is discolored, separated or rotted. Water runs in peculiar directions inside the roofs of trailers; damage is not necessarily limited to areas immediately beneath the leak. Water can travel below the roof but above the ceiling, given the slightest off-level placement of a trailer, and pool in corners or up against internal ribs and supports many feet from its source.