Rubber Roof Repair for Trailers

Trailer Rubber Roof Repair

• In the past, repairing rubber roofs was, for do-it-yourselfers, a haphazard and messy process involving any number of barely effective petroleum-based products that subsequently caused conspicuous staining down the trailer's sides after rainfall. Products are now marketed that are relatively clean and simple to use, and which block leaks through any splits in the trailer roof up to a fairly large size; certainly splits of less than a quarter inch seldom need prepacking, so repairing the kind of damage occasioned by regular aging and mild settling is an easy project. These proprietary products, sold under a handful of trade names, are available from most home improvement warehouses and RV dealerships; seek advice from the store staff, then read the packaging to decide which is best for your needs.

Preparation

• Clean the trailer roof using a mild soap and water solution, and visually check the roof and seals for tears; rubber membrane roofs are very susceptible to damage from overhangs and branches. Also inspect the seals between separate sheets of rubber used to fabricate the roof, the seals where the roof sheeting is joined to the side curtains and the seals around any vents, air conditioners and skylights -- all properly called "penetrations." The caulks and sealants used around seals and penetrations at the factory weather and age even if they have not suffered mechanical damage. Any wide splits must be packed prior to the application of the repair coating; follow the instructions on the repair coating as to what material to use to pack the splits. Do not use silicone sealant. Remove any fixtures and edge moldings that might interfere with the speedy and complete application of the repair coating. Remove peeling or flaking sealant. Retighten any fasteners that have worked loose. Allow the roof to dry completely before proceeding.

Application of Sealant

• Always follow the manufacturer's specific instructions for preparation, application and cleanup. Also observe advice regarding weather conditions, including the conditions necessary for proper drying and curing over following hours or days. Typically liquid rubber coatings are simply rolled onto the large, flat areas of the roof, and a stiff, 4-inch paintbrush is used to ensure penetration and good coverage around seams. Start at the front edge of the trailer and work backward, always being aware of trip hazards. Work at a sufficiently fast pace that a dry line is not allowed to form.

Future Preventative Maintenance

• Clearly it is more desirable to prevent leaks than to repair them. Institute an annual practice of resealing any seams across the roof, the seams between the roof and the side curtains, and the seams around the penetrations. A word of caution: Never use silicone sealants to effect a "quick fix," because they will prevent adhesion of the proper repair material later. If silicone sealant has been used by a previous owner, you must use a box cutter to remove every trace before carrying out your own repairs. Also be aware that EPDM coating -- Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer -- is different from rubber, and must be treated differently. EPDM is typically white, whereas rubber roofs are typically black; the materials used to repair each are different.