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Deep Water Well Submersible Pump Froze & Won't Pump

Being without running water, even for a short time, is a major inconvenience for most folks. People in rural areas often depend upon private wells to supply water for their drinking and household needs. When a well pump stops working, it’s a big problem. A deep well descends below the surface water and into a confined aquifer that can lie hundreds of feet below ground level. When the impeller on a deep well submersible pump quits spinning, the pump is said to be "frozen." After you eliminate other potential problems, you'll have to pull the pump.
  1. Before You Pull the Pump

    • Check the breaker that regulates the power to the pump. If the breaker trips, there is no power to the pump and no water flow. Check the reset switches in the control box. If it’s winter and there is a chance that the upper part of the water pipe froze, try thawing out the pipe before pulling the pump. Check the pressure tank if you have one to make sure the line isn’t clogged and that the breaker to the tank is on. Pulling a deep well pump is a big job. If you kink a flexible pipe, you may have to replace it to ensure adequate flow. You can’t pull the pump by hand, so if you don’t have a hoist or a winch, call a well-servicing crew.

      If you're unsure how deep your well is, call the environmental health division in your county. Most counties maintain a log of all private wells, including well depth and how many gallons of water per minute the well produces.

    Pulling the Pump

    • There are three items that run between the pump and the surface of the ground: an electric wire that powers the pump; a hose, through which the water pumps; and a rope that extends from the pump and fastens to a post or brace at ground level. The only safe way to pull the pump is by the rope, connected to a winch. As the winch turns, the pump rises and the wire and hose come out of the hole, too. During the pulling process, someone must guide the hose to keep it from kinking and coil the wire as it emerges. If the hose isn’t flexible, you must disassemble each section as it comes out of the hole. Rigid pipe sections may be between 10 and 20 feet long.

    Checking the Pump

    • If the pump motor is inoperable, you might have to replace the pump. Occasionally, however, a small grain of sand or sediment will lodge in the impeller located beneath the protective casing on the bottom of the pump, causing the impeller to "freeze." If this is the case, you can clean the impeller and test it to ensure that it spins freely. Sometimes, the pump is shot, and you’ll have to buy a new one. Only a qualified pump expert will know for sure. If you have to buy a new pump, ask the pump dealer if putting the pump in a woman’s nylon stocking will help prevent future sediment clogs.

    Lowering the Pump

    • After you repair or replace the pump and test it to make sure it’s working, it’s time to lower it back into the well. This is a good time to replace the rope if it’s not in good shape. The rope must be heavy-duty nylon that will not degrade in the water. The pump goes down the same way it came up, and someone must monitor both the hose and the wire to ensure that the wire does not tangle and the hose does not kink. Although you can save money by pulling your own pump, if something goes wrong, you could end up spending more than you would have if you had called a well servicer in the beginning.