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Do-It-Yourself CPVC Plumbing

Working with CPVC plumbing is less costly and much easier than working with copper piping. With copper, a certain amount of skill is required to “sweat” or solder the pipe and fittings together. CPVC on the other hand simply requires that you apply liquid primer and glue to the pipe and fittings to install the water lines. Virtually every part that you can get for copper piping, such as faucets, elbows and T-fittings, is available in the CPVC medium. This means that you can replace every water pipe in the house at a fraction of the cost of copper. There are no exact measurements given here, since each application is unique.

Things You'll Need

  • Tape measure
  • Drill
  • Auger bit set
  • 1/2-inch CPVC pipe
  • CPVC couplers
  • CPVC elbows
  • CPVC T-fittings
  • CPVC threaded adapters
  • CPVC primer
  • CPVC glue
  • CPVC brackets
  • CPVC tubing cutter
  • Phillips screwdriver
  • Drywall screws
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Instructions

    • 1

      Make your first connection to the main water inlet valve coming into the house using a coupler. Depending on the location of the water inlet, the length of pipe you use as the start will vary. Cut the pipe to the length you need using the tubing cutter. Slide a coupler on the length of pipe, and then glue the flange to the end of the water pipe. Connect the pipe to the water inlet, and tighten it snugly with a pipe wrench.

    • 2

      Do not over-tighten or you will break the pipe. Assemble the pipeline without glue to start. Run the pipe through the entire length of the house. Once you know the pieces are the proper lengths, and you have the couplers and fittings that you need, take the line apart and apply liquid primer to each of the connections, and allow it to dry for one minute. Bevel the edge of each length of pipe using a utility knife; this will make the bond stronger when you glue the pipe together.

    • 3

      Apply a thin coat of glue to each connection, and push the pipe together firmly. If you are installing in a basement or crawl space, make sure that you secure lengths of pipe with support brackets. Install these brackets into the joists using a Phillips screwdriver and drywall screws. For each length, allow ½ inch for expansion and contraction around obstacles. Use a connector between each length of pipe by first priming it and then applying a thin coat of glue to secure it. Use elbow and T-fittings where necessary to take the line around turns and to branch off the main line.

    • 4

      When you have to go through a stud, joist, floor or wall, use a 3/4-inch auger bit with 1/2-inch pipe or a 1-inch bit for 3/4-inch pipe to make holes for the pipe to pass through.