An unsound surface -- one that is peeling, pitted, scratched or stained with an oil-based contaminant -- must be stripped down to a sound substrate before refinishing. Sanding seldom is sufficient; painting over the edges of sanded-off layers of paint inevitably shows through the finish coat as a series of ripples. Depending upon the substrate, use paint stripper and a steel wool pad or a heat gun and a scraper to remove the unsound coats; next, sand and prepare the exposed substrate, then prime and paint according to the paint manufacturer’s instructions.
A sound surface is one where the previous paint is still uniformly and entirely attached to the substrate, whatever that might be. Regardless of the appearance of the surface, dulled, sun-bleached or stained with coffee-cup rings, if the preexisting paint -- including a semigloss paint -- is sound, it can be sanded and repainted.
The experts at "Popular Woodworking Magazine" note that semigloss and satin paints have flattening agents added that reduce the paint's gloss and that painters must “Pay more attention to doing a thorough sanding if you are using a gloss finish than if you are using one with flatting agents included.” Nonetheless, to ensure that a good mechanical bond is achieved between the preexisting semigloss and the new satin coat, the sanding should be thorough and even.
If the semigloss surface is sound, wash it with sugar soap or a similar detergent to remove atmospheric and mechanical contaminants that could have adhered to its surface; even finger grease could spoil the eventual finish. Sand with a fine abrasive paper such as 220 grit to “key” the surface. Keying means to interrupt the smoothness of the semigloss so that the satin paint will have a better chance of adhering. To remove the sanding dust, wipe over the sanded surface with a clean, lint-free rag moistened with mineral spirits, then apply the satin coat according to the manufacturer’s instructions.