Particle wood is made from compressed wood fibers and covered in a thin laminate board, making particle board cheaper than real wood but not as durable. Most homeowners assume that when particle wood cabinets become outdated, they must replace them. However, you can actually paint particle wood cabinets just like real wood cabinets. Particle wood can even be antiqued.
Remove items from the cabinets, drawers and surrounding countertops. Place drop cloths over the countertops and floors and in a well-ventilated work area.
Remove the cabinet doors and drawers from the frame, and place them in the well-ventilated work area. Take off any hardware pieces using a screwdriver, and set them in a safe place.
Wash away all grease and dirt from the surface of the cabinet frame, doors and drawers using a solution of TSP and water. TSP is an industrial cleanser found in home improvement stores next to the paint. Let the cabinets dry before proceeding.
Sand the surface of the particle wood using 150-grit sandpaper. Sand until you've removed the protective coating over the laminate and the surface is coarse and rough to the touch. Wipe the cabinet pieces down using a washcloth and warm water. Allow the cabinets to dry before proceeding.
Apply a thin coat of satin sheen paint in the desired base color. The base color is the underneath color that will show through the cracks of the top coat. Use the paint roller to apply the paint to the thicker areas of the cabinets and the 2-inch paintbrush for any hard-to-reach corners or narrow areas. Let the satin finish dry overnight.
Use a paintbrush to apply a thin coat of the antiquing glaze. Antiquing glazes are available in paint and hardware stores in a variety of antique effects, such as crackle or weathered. Coat the entire surface of the cabinet frame, doors and drawers using the glaze. Let the glaze sit for the time listed on the manufacturer’s label, which ranges from one to four hours. Don't let the glaze sit overnight on the cabinets; otherwise, you will have to reapply it.
Apply a layer of the top-coat color using a satin or flat finish. Don't use a gloss finish, because the thickness of the paint will make it difficult for the glaze to crack through. Apply only a single coat of the top coat, and try not to roll the roller continually over the same area, which can cause the glazing solution to gum up.
Let the cabinets sit for the drying time listed on the manufacturer’s instructions. The antiquing glaze will start to work and crackle within minutes, showing the base-coat color through the cracks.
Reattach the hardware pieces and reinstall the cabinets once they have dried fully.