Sanding away the old finish is usually the best way to remove it, although you may apply a varnish remover product if you’re restoring a piece of furniture or a cabinet face with intricate details. On pine floors, however, don’t use chemical removers, which dissolves the old stain and varnish, which can then seep into the plank seams. An upright random orbital sander, available from construction rental stores, makes quick work of sanding off old floor finish.
When the pine is free from the old stain and finish, you must apply a pine-conditioning product before restaining. Sold as a “pine sealer” or a “sanding sealer,” this product saturates the top layer of the wood and, when dry, promotes even stain absorption. Application of the product typically involves brushing it on liberally with a natural-bristle brush. Some products may recommend a second application.
You may brush or wipe on the stain of choice and then wipe it off with clean soft rags, rubbing in the direction of the wood grain. Unlike staining some woods where you can leave the stain on and it will absorb, gradually deepening the color, since you’ve sealed the pine grain, the color you see after a minute or two is the color you’ll end up with.
You can apply a variety of surface products to stained pine, but there are some considerations. Since the stain doesn’t absorb deeply, make sure the pine surface is very dry before applying the finish. The wood might also benefit from a light sanding before the finish coat. The pine conditioner and stain can raise the wood grain just enough so that it feels slightly rough. By sanding with fine, 120-grit sandpaper, you can knock off the surface roughness without removing any stain. Sand again with 240-microgrit paper after the first coat of finish dries. The microgrit will not scratch, but it will remove dust particles and leave the pine with a glass-smooth finish.