Separate the broken banister sections carefully, while keeping them in the rail. Assign a helper to grasp the broken sections. If only a section of the banister is cracked, insert a wood shim in the middle to separate the two.
Inject a tube of adhesive caulk into a caulking gun. Puncture the seal with the tip of a sharp nail. Position the tip of the gun into the broken edge and pull the trigger to release a thin bead of adhesive over the surface, all the way down to the other end of the banister.
Set the two broken pieces back together, or remove the wood shim, to help the glue adhere. If required, clamp the sections to hold them in place until the adhesive dries, according to the time specified on the label’s directions. Wipe away excess adhesive that seeps out through the repaired joint with a rag.
Remove the clamp if you used one when the glue dries. Sand the dried glue around the joint until the surface is smooth. Paint the repaired sections of the banister so it blends with the surrounding surface, and allow it to dry thoroughly.
Grasp the stairway banister and gently shake it to determine where it is loose.
Check the banister at the point where it connects to the wall and the support brackets under it. Inspect the screws in the brackets, and tighten the ones that are loose back into the banister using a screwdriver. Also check and tighten loose screws in the wall brackets.
Check the banister at the point where it joins the top or base of the newel post to determine where it is loose. Hold the tip of a power drill at a 45-degree angle along the lower side of the banister, so it points upward toward the post, and bore a 2-inch-deep hole through the wood.
Insert a 2-inch lag screw into the pilot hole. Tighten the screw head with a screwdriver so it falls just below the surface of the surrounding wood.
Cover the screw head with tinted wood putty that matches the surrounding surface. Allow the putty to dry before sanding it. If required, touch up the repaired section with paint.