If you're comfortable working with simple wiring and are handy with a screwdriver, you may be able to confirm whether the clutch is the problem, and perhaps which part of the clutch. Switch off all controls and unplug the washer before starting. Unscrewing the control panel from its face on the front top of the washer exposes the lid switch and allows you to test the clutch. Fastening screws may be on the sides or the back of the washer. Lift and rotate it up toward you. It typically has hinges on the opposite end to stay open while you work. Unplugging the lid switch and inserting a piece of insulated wire on its outside outlets allows you to have the washer spin with the lid open once you plug it back in. Never insert the insulated wire into the center outlet on the wire harness.
Putting the washer on spin, then turning it on and off several times, should make the clutch drum and the tub spin at a normal rate. If the clutch drum spins, but the washer doesn't, the clutch pad is likely worn. If neither the clutch drum nor the tub spins, the problem may be in the gear box.
You may find wear or damage visible on the clutch itself if you remove and inspect it. The clutch is commonly located at the bottom of the washer, under the washer belt. Remove the washer's back panel and unplug the clutch from the terminal motor. Release the bottom clamp on the pump coupling piece, located above the clutch. Loosening the mounting screws on the bottom plate with a wrench should free it completely, but you may have to tilt the washer forward and slide it out.
Inspect the clutch carefully for signs of wear and tear. Frayed wires, broken or cracked pieces of very dirty parts may need maintenance or replacement. Check for leaked oil on the clutch, which may be coming from the transmission. The fluid causes the clutch to slip often, which can slow or stop spinning. If you notice exposed rivets on the clutch pad, it needs replacing. If you're unsure of the clutch's condition, contact a service technician.