How to Adhere Carpet to Concrete Floor

Sweep the concrete floor. This gets rid of any dust and debris that may cause it not to adhere well.

Check for any leaks or other moisture issues on the concrete. If there is a problem, repair it before installing the carpet.

Fill a spray bottle with water, and spritz the concrete floor near the walls. Turn the heat on high. The areas on the concrete that dry the fastest are where the heat ducts are located. Outline this area with chalk so that you don't puncture the ducts.

Heating ducts are generally in the ceiling in basement areas because they is no empty space beneath the floor. This step is not necessary on basement floors.

Measure along the length of the concrete walls, and write the measurements down. This tells you how long to cut each tackless strip. They are necessary to install the carpeting.

Stretch the tape measure along the tackless strip and cut the strips with sharp shears or a hand saw to the appropriate length.

Lay the tackless strips against the concrete floor around the perimeter. Position them very close to the wall, but leave a gap that is approximately two-thirds the thickness of the carpet.

Nail all the tackless strips in place around the perimeter of the room by using at least two masonry nails per strip. Avoid any chalked areas that indicate heating ducts. Join the corners of the tackless strips and check to ensure the pins are pointing to the wall area.

Install carpet padding if you're using it. Cut strips of the padding that cover all the tackless strips and the remaining concrete floor area.

Lay the carpet padding strips with the side that looks like a waffle down. Inspect the length to ensure it covers all the tackless strips. Don't overlap the padding.

Fold back the carpet padding and apply the carpet cement or adhesive with a trowel directly onto the concrete. Do this along the walls and at the seams.

Trim any excess padding with a utility knife, then seal the carpet padding seams with duct tape.

Add 4 to 6 inches to the previous floor measurements and write them down as a guide to cut the carpets.

Lay the carpet down so that you can cut it from the backside with a utility knife according to the measurements. Use a straightedge to assist you in making clean cuts.

Spread the carpeting out over the concrete floor and padding if you are using it. Allow the edges to overlap the walls a couple of inches and overlap any seams.

Use a chalk line to form a straight edge on the carpet along the walls. Cut the line with a row cutter.

Trim any overlapping along the seams with cushion back cutter, then cut a strip of carpet seaming tape to fit the seam. The adhesive section faces up. Center it directly under the seam and use a seaming iron on it to melt the adhesive.

Press the seams together with your gloved hands, and use a rolling pin to smooth the seams.

Set the teeth of the knee kicker into the carpet. Do this approximately 1 inch from the wall.

Hit the cushioned section of the knee kicker with your knee. This allows the tackless strip to grab hold of the carpeting to hold it securely in place. Repeat this around the perimeter of the room.

Pad the wall with a scrap piece of carpeting once you get the carpeting fastened with the knee kicker. This protects the wall from damage from the power stretcher.

Place the power stretcher approximately 6 inches from the wall. Allow the teeth to dig into the carpeting, push the lever down and lock it in place. Repeat this on the opposite corner and then the other areas of the room around the perimeter to stretch the carpet efficiently.

Set the wall trimmer at the correct height for the carpeting. Trim the carpet along each wall. Once you reach the last few inches, use a utility knife to cut the excess.

Force the carpeting down in between the wall area and the tackless strips with a stair chisel. This gives the flooring a neat appearance.

Trim any carpet at doorways, and add a gripper edge to give it a finished look.