How to Remove a Rotted Fascia

Set up a ladder or scaffolding system underneath the fascia. Since fascia removal requires relatively small amounts of time and effort, it is usually not advantageous to set up a scaffold. Therefore, extra care must be taken that your ladder is set up securely and always avoid working near power lines.

Remove any extraneous objects such as metal gutters, vent pipe brackets, TV antennae or cable lines. Brackets and similar objects are usually attached by threaded metal fasteners that can be easily unscrewed with a screwdriver or wrench. On the other hand, gutters are held up with long spikes that will require a pry tool such as a framing hammer or flat bar to take out the spikes.

Cut the fascia into six-foot sections while it is still attached to the building. Use the reciprocating saw for this task and be extra careful not to cut into any other parts of the house, such as the fascia header, soffit or drip edge. Since the board is rotten, cutting the fascia does not ruin good wood, and also makes the task of removal much easier for anyone working off a ladder.

Take out any additional strips of wood that are attached to the front of the fascia with the flat pry bar. Sometimes a block-shaped molding is placed behind the drip edge or a decorative strip is added near the bottom of the fascia. Carefully, pry these away from the fascia with the long end of the flat pry bar or hammer.

Remove all nails from the fascia with the cat's paw and hammer. The claw part of the cat's paw is designed to be driven into the wood behind the nail head, so the whole nail can be removed. No need to worry about marking up the wood since water damage is already present.

Drive any remaining nails into the fascia header with the drift pin and hammer. If rot is extensive, the head of the nail may rust out. The best solution is to drive the remaining part of the nail deeper into the wood until it clears the back end of the fascia board. Now, the section of fascia should easily come free.