Remove the old handrail by sawing through the bottom, also called the toe or shoe rail, and the top rail at both ends, taking care to avoid any screws or nails that might damage the blade. Salvage a segment of railing with cap, handrail, balusters and toe, or shoe, rail intact, if possible to use as a pitch sample . Pull or unscrew nails and bolts to pull away stubs of rails and pull out the newel post if it needs replacement.
Cut a “pitch block,” based on the angle of the old railing. Cut a piece of lumber, at least 8 inches across at a right angle in one end. Lay the perpendicular side against a baluster and mark the pitch, using the top cap or toe rail as a guide. If you can’t get a true angle because the railing fell apart or the railing dropped at a different angle than the stairs, line the perpendicular edge against a step riser and record the pitch from the tip of the edge of one tread to the tip of the next tread below it.
Set the new newel post on the bottom step using a cleat and galvanized screws. Alternately, cut a notch on the bottom end of the post and attach it through the stringer on the side of the bottom step with carriage bolts.
Cut new balusters for the railing. Compute their length by subtracting the thickness of the top cap rail and the thickness of the toe rail and its distance off the stair tread. Use the pitch guide to mark the top and bottom if your stairs will have a toe rail.
Add the 2-by-2-inch rails to the balusters by nailing through the rails into the balusters with galvanized nails. Countersink the nails slightly on one rail so they don’t create space between the rail and the cap. Attach the ends of the rails to the newel post and porch column with galvanized screws or angle brackets.
Top the railing with a decorative cap or 1-by-4-inch hardwood board and attach it with finish nails. Sand all corners and surfaces before painting or finishing with oil stain or marine varnish.