Locater a replacement pane that is approximately one-eighth inch smaller than broken window’s the dimensions. This ensures the new pane slips into place without any breakage or cracks.
Wear work gloves and safety goggles before examining the window. If the window is not completely broken, place an X mark over the window with masking tape. Cover the window with a towel, and then firmly tap it with a towel, breaking the glass. Clean the glass shards and place them in a plastic bag for disposal before continuing.
Scrape away the putty, also known as glaze, around the pane with a putty knife. If the glaze isn’t budging, carefully soften it with a heat gun. Hold the gun at least 6 to 8 inches away from the window. Working it back and forth loosens the glaze.
Cover the newly exposed wood sash with a light coating of fast-drying primer. Applying the primer with a small paintbrush creates a waterproof seal on the exposed wood. Let the primer dry for at least three to four hours, or according to the package directions.
Install a bead of clear silicone caulk around the window sash’s perimeter. This caulk provides a soft place where the glass rests inside the frame.
Installing replacement glazier’s points prevents the new pane from slipping. Push the first two points into each side of the frame’s top with your gloved finger approximately 2 inches away from the corners. Install the second two glazier’s points into the frame’s bottom sides 2 inches away from the corners as well. Insert the screws completely into the frame with a screwdriver.
Work the replacement glazier’s putty between your hands making it pliable. Roll enough putty to cover all four of the new pane’s outside edges. Work the putty around the pane with your fingers. Hold a putty knife at a 30-degree angle and smooth down the putty, working it further into the area between the pane and sash.