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How to Setup a 220 Electrical Service

The same electrical service panel that supplies 120 or 110-volt power to lights and outlets in a home also provides 240 or 220-volt power to major appliances such as water heaters, stoves, kilns and electric dryers. The 220-volt wires are thicker than those used for common household circuits. Each 220-volt circuit is dedicated to a particular appliance or outlet unlike 110-volt circuits that contain all the lights and outlets in multiple rooms. A double breaker draws twice the power of a 110-volt connection to run 220-volt service to an appliance.

Things You'll Need

  • Stud finder
  • Double pole circuit breaker
  • Electrical cable
  • Slotted screwdriver
  • Phillips screwdriver
  • Utility knife
  • Pliers
  • Wire cutters
  • Fish tape
  • Electrical tape
  • Drywall saw
  • Junction box
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Instructions

    • 1

      Use a stud finder on the wall near the 220 appliance location to find the wall studs. Select a location for the junction box next to one of the studs. Use the paper pattern that comes with the junction box package to get the exact size of the wall hole needed. Cut a hole in the wall to fit the electrical box with one side against the stud using a drywall saw.

    • 2

      Turn the "Main" power switch in your electrical panel to the off position. The main breaker switch will be clearly labeled. Remove the screws holding the cover on the breaker box with a slotted screwdriver. Select a double pole breaker and electrical cable that suits the needs of the appliance. A water heater may only need a 30 amp breaker and 10 gauge electrical wire for 220-volt power. An electric range may call for a 50 amp breaker and 8 or 6 gauge wiring.

    • 3

      Cut 10 inches of the outer jacket off the electrical cable at both ends with a utility knife. Strip the insulated wires at both ends with wire cutters to reveal 3/4 of an inch of bare wire. Tape the 220-volt wires at one end of the cable to a fish tape with electrical tape. Remove one of the metal plates from a knock-out in the breaker box with pliers. Push the fish tape through the knock-out and up the inside of the wall to the attic. Retrieve the fish tape inside the attic and push it down the wall to the opening cut for the electrical box.

    • 4

      Remove a knock-out in the junction box with pliers. Take the electrical tape off the fish tape and push the wires through the knock-out hole. Secure the electrical box to the stud with the provided wood screws using a Phillips screwdriver. Cover the bare wires ends with wire nuts. This end is ready to wire to an appliance or outlet for 220-volt service.

    • 5

      Loosen a terminal screw on the ground bus bar inside the breaker box. The ground bus bar is a row of terminals holding the green or bare copper wires. Push the bare copper ground wire from the electrical cable into the terminal screw hole. Tighten the screw firmly. Secure the white neutral wire to the neutral bus bar in the same fashion. The neutral bus bar holds several white wires in a row of terminals.

    • 6

      Loosen the terminal clamps on the double breaker. Insert the black wire into one and tighten the terminal screw securely. Secure the red wire on the other terminal. Both are hot wires and will work in either terminal. Push the back of the double pole breaker into an open spot on the hot bar that holds the breaker switches. Clip the wired end into place on the bus bar. Remove the knock-outs on the panel cover in front of the double pole breaker. Replace the cover and tighten the screws. Restore power with the main switch until you are ready to wire the 220-volt circuit to an appliance or outlet.