Turn off power to the main power source that will be supplying the new outlets. Check that the power source's wiring will be safe to work with, using a circuit tester.
Measure from the power source to where the first conduit bend will be or to the first electrical box if it is straight across from the power source. If you measure to a bend, subtract 5 inches from your measurement. Transfer this number onto a piece of straight conduit.
Insert the conduit into a conduit bender. Line up the mark you made with the line on the conduit bender. Place one foot on the conduit to hold it in place. Pull back on the conduit bender's handle until the conduit bend lines up with the appropriate angle degree on the bender.
Measure from where the bend will be up to either the next bend or the first electrical box. If the conduit will reach an electrical box, add 3/4 inch to this measurement. If the conduit will make a second bend, subtract another 5 inches.
Transfer the measurement from Step 4 onto the same piece of conduit you just bent. Bend the conduit a second time if necessary. If you do not bend the conduit a second time, cut the conduit on the mark you made with a hacksaw.
Ask a friend to hold the conduit against the wall in the location it will be mounted. Hold the electrical box against its end and determine which knockout hole to remove. Place a screwdriver against this hole and hit the screwdriver with a hammer. Place an offset connector into the knockout hole.
Test fit the conduit in the offset connector while you hold the electrical box against the wall. Place a level on the conduit and adjust it if necessary. Drive masonry screws through the electrical box's screw holes and into the wall.
Measure from the electrical box you just mounted for the second conduit run. Bend and cut this piece of conduit the same way you did the first piece. Remove a second electrical box's knockout hole and insert an offset connector. Place the conduit between the two electrical boxes, check it with a level, and secure the second electrical box to the wall the same way you secured the first.
Tighten the offset connections by pushing the inside tab toward the wall with a flathead screwdriver. Run electrical cable from the power source and 6 inches into the first electrical box. Cut the cable with wire strippers.
Run more cable from the first electrical box to the second electrical box. Extend the cable 6 inches into the second box. Cut the cable with wire strippers and return to the first electrical box.
Cut through the cable's rubber coating with a utility knife. Peel the coating away from the wires. Cut off the coating as well as the paper insulation. Repeat this step for each of the cable's cut ends in both electrical boxes.
Strip 1 inch of coating off each of the electrical wires in both boxes. Bend the wires into hooks. At the first box, wrap the black and white wire around two outlet screw terminals. Tighten the screw terminals with a screwdriver. Wrap the grounding wire around the outlet's grounding screw terminal and tighten the screw. Repeat this step for the second outlet.
Push both outlets into their respective electrical box. Secure the outlets to the boxes with the provided screws.
Unwrap the power supply wires from around the power source (usually a light switch). Cut a 6-inch-long piece of cable. Remove the outer rubber coating and paper insulation and separate the wires. Strip 1/2 inch off each of the wires' ends.
Bend one end of each short wire. Wrap the bent ends around the power source's terminals. Hold the short black wire together with the black power supply wire and the black outlet wire. Twist a wire nut over them. Repeat with the white wires and the grounding wires. Restore power to the power supply source.