How to Move a Switch in Drywall

Turn on the light in the room where the light switch is located, then flip the breaker to that room to cut off the power. The light should shut off when you flip the breaker. Flip the light switch on and off to ensure that the power is indeed off.

Remove the face plate from the light switch by removing the screws holding it in place. Some face plates require a flat-head screwdriver, while others require a Philips-head screwdriver. Once the screws are removed, gently pry the face plate from the wall using a flat-head screwdriver.

Pull the light switch out of the project box slightly; you will have to remove two screws, one on the top of the switch and one on the bottom, if they are present. Disconnect the wires from the switch using a Philips-head screwdriver. Unscrew the screws to loosen them, and then gently tug the wires off the switch.

Place a new light switch box against the wall where you want the switch to be located. Trace around the box with a pencil; then remove the box. Cut the drywall on the pencil line with a utility knife to remove it; discard the small piece of drywall you've removed. Press the light switch outlet box into the hole so that it is flush with the wall.

Cut a piece of 14-gauge electrical wire that is long enough to connect the original light switch box with the new light switch. Feed the wire through the new light switch outlet box, behind the drywall and to the old box. If you're moving the light switch a large distance, you'll need to locate the studs between the two boxes with a stud finder and mark them with a pencil; then cut a small section of drywall near each stud so that you can guide wire through the wire holes in the wood. You should have some excess wire protruding from each outlet box when you're finished.

Strip 1 inch of plastic from the ends of the new wire. Twist the ends of the new 14-gauge wire that you fed into the original outlet box to the ends of the original wires. Match each wire with its identical counterpart. For example, twist the ends of the white wires together, the ends of the black wires together, etc. Screw a plastic wire cap onto each piece of twisted wires; then wrap them thoroughly with electrical tape to ensure that no bare wire is exposed.

Place a solid face plate onto the original electrical box; this face plate is similar to the light switch face plate, except that it has no switch and covers the original opening completely. This is necessary so that you can access the spliced wires later if repairs are needed.

Connect the light switch to the 14-gauge wires in the new outlet box by wrapping them around the screws on the switch and tightening them in place. The black wire should be connected to the brass screw, the bare wire should be connected to the green screw and the white wire should be connected to the remaining screw, which may be plated or painted white.

Insert the light switch into the outlet box and screw it in place with a single screw on the top of the switch and a single screw on the bottom if necessary; some outlet boxes have a "snap-on" feature to which you can snap the switch into place.

Place the light switch face plate over the switch and screw it in place.

Patch any holes you had to cut in the drywall by measuring the missing section with a tape measure and cutting a piece of drywall to fit the hole. Place the drywall in the hole and fix it in place with drywall tape. Place putty over the tape and allow it to dry, and then sand the putty and tape smooth. Paint over the putty with fresh paint.

Turn the breaker back on to turn on the power.

Flip the switch to ensure that it is working properly; the light should turn on.