Measure your room and plan how the drywall will be installed. Use as many full sheets of gypsum drywall as possible to limit the number of seams you will have to finish.
Install as many full pieces as possible, using a drill to send drywall screws through the board and into the framing studs. For full-sized pieces, help from an assistant may be necessary to lift the opposite side and prevent the board from bending and breaking.
Cut drywall boards to complete the installation. Use a pencil and measuring tape to make several marks at the appropriate length. Line up the marks with a level or straight edge and draw a cutting line. Place the utility knife against the straight edge and score the board at the line several times. Snap the board and run your utility knife along the bend from underneath to cut any remaining paper or gypsum. Rough-in holes for light fixtures by completely scoring the board and knocking out the piece with a hammer. Install the boards with the screws.
Stir the contents of the joint compound bucket thoroughly, as the water in the material may have separated during shipping.
Apply small amounts of joint compound to a drywall knife. Spread the material in a light layer across one seam in the ceiling. Cut a length of mesh or paper drywall tape the length of the seam and press the tape into the compound. Apply a thin layer of compound on top of the tape, making as smooth of a surface as possible. Repeat the tape installation by covering gaps one at a time. Allow the compound to dry completely.
Smooth the seams by rubbing each with one side of the drywall sanding screen. Apply a second coat of joint compound as needed to fill in any depressions or to feather out edges to avoid seeing the tape lines. Allow the second coat to dry and sand it again.
Seal the joint compound and boards by rolling on a coat of primer. When dry, finish the hard-coated ceiling with a coat of quality ceiling paint.