Determine the direction of the furring strips. Drywall is hung perpendicular to the furring strips, starting in the corner of the room. For example, if the strips are installed length-wise, north to south, the drywall should be hung width-wise, east to west.
Apply a bead of construction adhesive along the furring strips that will touch the first drywall sheet.
Place the first drywall sheet on a drywall stand to support the drywall then hoist the drywall sheet flat against the ceiling. Screw the drywall sheet into each furring strip with 1 1/2-inch drywall screws; drive screws every 8 to 12 inches along each strip and sheet edge. Make sure to sink any protruding screw heads.
Position the second drywall sheet so it butts up against the first. Repeat the steps to install it. Continue to install all additional drywall sheets over the strips the same way. If you need to cut a sheet to size, measure the size of sheet needed then cut the drywall sheet with a utility knife.
Hold paper drywall tape along the seam between the drywall sheets. Cut the tape to the proper length with a joint-knife blade. Then set the drywall tape aside.
Smooth a coat of joint compound over the joint with a 6-inch joint knife. Then press the drywall tape over the wet joint compound. Squeeze any excess compound from underneath the tape with the joint knife. Go back over the tape with firm pressure to smooth the joint tape. Allow the compound to dry.
Scrape off any rough spots from the face of the drywall tape with a 10-inch joint knife. Rough spots will show the seams and taping even through paint. Then apply a thick coat of drywall mud to each strip of drywall tape with the 10-inch joint knife. Scrape away any excess mud.
Apply a thick layer of drywall mud on top of each strip of tape with the 6-inch joint knife. Be sure to use a criss-cross stroke when applying the mud to the wall. Immediately scrape off any excess mud. This will completely hide the outline of the seams and joint tape. The ceiling is now ready for texture and paint.