Coping Saw Basics

Basic Cutting Process

• Most uses of a coping saw involve cutting curved contours into thin (less than 2 inches thick) pieces of wood. The first step in achieving this is to draw an outline of the desired shape onto the surface of the wood as a guide. Then, a hole is drilled down through the wood close to the drawn line. The blade of the coping saw is removed, passed through the hole, and then re-affixed to its frame, after which the cutting process begins. The narrow blade of the saw allows it to cut tight curves, making it a natural for moldings and trim work.

Thick or Thin?

• When cutting thin pieces of wood (less than 1/2 inch or so) the piece to be cut is clamped in place to a horizontal work surface with squeeze or C clamps. The blade is mounted with the teeth facing back toward the handle so the saw cuts on the up stroke. When working with thick material, the piece that is being cut is frequently (though not always) held vertically, perpendicularly to the work surface, in wood-clamps and the blade is mounted with the teeth pointing away from the handle. In this mode, the saw cuts on the down or in stroke.

Blade Removal/Replacement

• Coping saw blades are removed either to thread them through a hole in the piece of wood that is going to be cut or to replace blades that have snapped or worn out. To remove a blade, partly unscrew the handle while preventing the pin that holds the blade from turning; then slide it off the pins at either end of the frame to which it is mounted. To insert a new blade, start by holding the saw vertically with the handle pointing upward and the other end of the frame pressed against the work surface. Push down on the handle while sliding the new blade over the mounting pins, starting with the one in the rear slot. Then let go. Finish by tightening the handle until the blade is held tautly.