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How to Build a Table With Pocket Screws

A pocket screw machine uses a router to cut a pilot hole and an angled divot, or pocket, into the edge of a wood piece, allowing the installation of a vertical pocket screw. This allows you to make perpendicular joints between two pieces -- even in the center of the work -- without marring the face of the piece with a fastener. Installing pocket screws on the inside of a piece, such as a table skirt, renders the screws invisible from a typical vantage point. Pocket screw machines are too expensive for most do-it-yourself furniture makers; for only a few dollars, however, a metal pocket-screw jig can be had that will accomplish the same thing with very little extra effort.

Things You'll Need

  • 3/4-inch plywood, cabinet grade
  • Tape measure
  • Table saw
  • Pocket screw bit and jig
  • Drill
  • Wood glue
  • Pin nailer
  • Pocket screws
  • Bar clamps
  • Squeeze clamps
  • 2-by-2 lumber
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Instructions

    • 1

      Cut a tabletop 24 inches square from 3/4-inch cabinet-grade plywood, using a table saw to make the cut.

    • 2

      Cut a strip 3 inches by 84 inches from the same material as the tabletop. Cut the strip into four pieces, each 21 inches long. Cut a 45-degree miter at each end of each piece, with the strip standing on its narrow edge. Adjust the saw to 45 degrees left and place one piece against the fence, flat on the saw table. Cut the end flush with the back corner. Flip the piece end for end, standing on what was the top edge, and make the same cut on the uncut end. Repeat with the remaining three pieces.

    • 3

      Clamp the pocket screw bit to the face of one of the pieces, aligned with the long edge according the to instructions that come with your jig -- the use varies slightly from brand to brand. Install the pocket screw bit into your drill chuck. Clamp the jig and wood piece firmly in place, then use the special pocket screw bit to drill the pocket and pilot hole. Drill pocket screw holes every 8 inches on all four pieces.

    • 4

      Drill one pocket screw hole at the left end of each strip. Determine the left end by placing the strip standing on the edge with the pocket screw holes facing down and the long face of the miters toward you. Drill the hole in the center of the strip.

    • 5

      Glue and nail together the mitered corners of the four strips to form a 21-inch-square frame. This is your table skirt. Use one pin nail per corner. Clamp the nailed frame with bar clamps, then drive a 1 1/4-inch pocket screw into each corner to reinforce it. Use a long square drive bit to drive the screws.

    • 6

      Apply glue to the edge of the table skirt with the pocket screw holes in it, then center the skirt on the tabletop, 1 1/2 inches in from each edge. Clamp it in place with squeeze clamps. Drive one 1 1/4 -inch pocket screw into the tabletop through each hole in the skirt.

    • 7

      Cut four 24-inch-long legs from 2-by-2 lumber. Choose lumber that is straight and free from cracks and splits. Drill one pocket screw hole on each of two adjoining faces at one end of each leg, aligning and clamping the jig as you did previously in Step 3.

    • 8

      Apply glue to the end of each leg on the square end, as well as 3 inches up from the pocket-screwed end on the faces that did not get pocket screw holes. Fit the leg into one corner of the table skirt, with the glued faces against the skirt and the pocket screw holes visible. Clamp the leg in place with a bar clamp, then drive one pocket screw into each hole to fasten it in place. Repeat with the remaining legs.