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How to Laminate Workbenches

Plastic laminates can be used over almost any stable substrate, and wood is one of the best. Adding a layer of laminate to a workbench can make it more suitable for some detail tasks that require a smooth surface, to prevent scratching sensitive work pieces. It also provides a water and light chemical resistant surface for working with liquids that would otherwise penetrate the wood of the workbench, leaving stains and smells. Use a laminate with a matte finish in most cases to reduce sliding.

Things You'll Need

  • Auto body filler
  • Putty knife
  • Belt sander
  • Tack cloth
  • Tape measure
  • Laminate
  • Table saw
  • Paint pan
  • Contact cement
  • Roller
  • Router
  • Mill bastard file
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Instructions

  1. Prep

    • 1

      Mix auto body filler, one part hardener to six parts putty, and fill any inconsistencies, nail holes and seams in the top and edges of the top of your workbench, using a flexible putty knife. Allow the filler to harden for 30 minutes.

    • 2

      Sand the surface smooth with a belt sander and 120-grit sanding belt. Wipe the dust from the surface with a tack cloth.

    • 3

      Measure the top and edges of the workbench with a tape measure. Cut pieces of laminate for each face, 1/2 inch larger than the face in each direction, using a table saw with a fine tooth plywood blade, to minimize chipping.

    Bench Edges

    • 4

      Pour a small amount of contact cement into a disposable plastic paint pan. Roll a small, medium nap roller through the adhesive to load the roller. Apply a medium thick coat to the left and right end edges of the bench top and the backs of the laminate pieces you cut for these faces.

    • 5

      Allow the contact cement to dry to the touch. Fit each piece of laminate onto its appointed face, centered. Use a rubber mallet to tap the laminate firmly, drumming along the surface from side to side. Stay well back from the overhanging edges.

    • 6

      Install a flush cut bearing bit in your router. Set the depth so that the bearing is 1/4 inch from the base plate. Start the router and run it around each end to cut the laminate flush with the wood edge of the bench.

    • 7

      Repeat the gluing and application process for the front and back edges of the table. Router them off around all four sides, using the same process you used for the end.

    Finish the Top

    • 8

      Roll a coat of glue onto the top and the back of the laminate you cut for it. Apply the top piece in the same way as before, tapping around the edge of the top with the rubber mallet. Roll across the laminate face with a J roller to press out any bubbles in the contact cement.

    • 9

      Trim the edges of the top piece off in the same way. Spray a small amount of silicone lubricant onto the bearing to ensure your laminate does not get scorched by the hot bearing.

    • 10

      Use a mill bastard file to file off the edges around the top. Work with the file tilted at a 45-degree angle to the bench top and the tip pointed right at a 45-degree angle. Apply medium pressure as you push the file along the edge, removing the sharp edge of the laminate.

    • 11

      Clean excess glue from the laminate with acetone and a clean rag. Put on gloves to work with acetone, especially if your skin is sensitive.