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DIY Shoji Screen Pocket Door

Traditional Japanese akarishoji were doors filled with paper stretched across a lattice and set into a door frame that could be slid open to frame lovely garden views. Today, shoji makers, or tateguya-san, manufacture shoji that use paper, laminates and acrylics. Shoji screens make perfect pocket doors, as they conserve space and spread light from one room to another. Standardized shoji typically measure 1 inch deep, 30 to 36 inches across and 80 to 83 inches tall. Pocket door kits make conversion easy.

Things You'll Need

  • Reciprocating saw with metal-cutting blade
  • Miter box hand saw
  • 3 pieces of 2-by-4 inch lumber, 8 feet long
  • Shoji screen
  • Pocket door kit
  • Chalk line and plumb line
  • 2 sliding door ball bearing hangers
  • Rail pocket
  • Screwdriver
  • Hammer
  • 1 or 2 sheets of 8-by-4-foot wallboard
  • Drywall tape and joint compound
  • Hand router
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Instructions

  1. Create the Pocket Opening

    • 1

      Pull off the existing door frame. Score the wallboard with the flat miter box saw or reciprocating saw just deep enough allow you to tear away enough wallboard to insert the pocket.

    • 2

      Cut back the studs above the new doorway so they end at the height of the door plus the depth of the frame plus 2 1/2 inches above the floor. Cut a 2-by-4 “header” the length of the opening to support the shortened studs. Cut two 2-by-4 boards to match the height of the new opening to support, or shim, the header up on either side of the opening. Hammer a nail through each shim into the adjacent stud to hold it in place. Trim the threshold flush with the sides of the new frame.

    • 3

      Snap chalk lines on the floor straight across the new door opening on both sides of the wall.

    Install the Pocket Hardware

    • 4

      Hold the pocket frame up against the 2-by-4 header. Nail the mounting plate at one end of the track into the vertical shim. Tack the other end up with one nail.

    • 5

      Check to ensure the shims are straight with a level and finish nailing them to the frame. Level the pocket frame before permanently attaching the second mounting plate.

    • 6

      Attach the pairs of wood-covered studs, split to allow door passage, to the header. Put one at the edge of the doorway and one halfway between the first split stud and the pocket’s edge.

    • 7

      Slip the base of a pair of split studs into a floor plate. Set the floor plate between the chalk lines and plumb with the top of the split stud. Nail or screw the plate to the floor. Repeat with the second pair and floor plate.

    • 8

      Replace the wallboard; use nails no longer than 1 1/4 inches to avoid scratching the door. Tape and paste the seams.

    Hang the Shoji Door

    • 9

      Attach the door hangers to the top of the screen’s frame. Hangers vary, so follow directions that came with the kit.

    • 10

      Attach an edge pull, using a hand router to make the depression. Alternately, purchase a shoji door with an edge pull installed.

    • 11

      Tip the hanger wheels into the track or pop the lock assembly together to hang the door. Adjust the screw on the wheel assembly, if present. The door should sit approximately 1/2 inch off the floor.

    • 12

      Attach door guides inside the base of the split jamb at the pocket’s opening to guide the door as it opens.