How to Build a Faux Wall Panel

Apply painter's tape to your wall in the shape and size you want your faux panel to be. Line up a spirit level with the top, bottom and side lines of the taped panel to ensure the top and bottom are level and the sides are plumb. Make any adjustments necessary. The painter's tape helps you visualize how your faux panel will look on your wall and lets you easily make any adjustments to the size of the rectangular or square panel or its placement on the wall.

Measure the length of the top and bottom lines and each side line with a measuring tape. Lightly trace around the outer edge of the tape with a pencil, then remove the tape.

Transfer the measurements to your molding stock by making a small pencil at each point on the outer edge of the molding. If, for instance, you purchased your molding stock in 8-foot lengths and plan a faux panel that is 2 1/2 feet wide and 5 feet tall, mark the top and the right side on the first length and the bottom and the left side on the second length.

Set your miter box on a workbench and adjust it to make a left 45-degree cut. This means the saw guide on the miter box should be turned in toward the left side of the miter box as you face it. Slide your first length of molding into the miter box so the flat side of the molding is flat against the bottom of the miter box and the outer edge is against back of the miter box. Align the first mark -- denoting the right end of the top piece of molding -- with the opening at the center of the miter box. Lower the saw guide and make the cut with the handsaw.

Lift the saw guide and move it to form a 45-degree angle with the saw to the right. Move the piece of molding you just cut -- the top side of your faux panel -- to the right side of the miter box and align it so the marked point (or just the end if you didn't specifically mark it) is at the center of the miter box. Lower the saw guide and make the cut. The piece should be cut at 45-degree angles at each end with the cuts angled in toward each other.

Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you have a top and bottom piece and two side pieces, all cut with 45-degree angles at each end and angled in toward each other from the top, or outer, edge of the molding to the bottom edge.

Lay the cut pieces out on the floor and dry fit the corners together to ensure a tight fit.

Apply construction adhesive to the back of the first piece of molding and affix it to the wall, lining up the outer edge with the pencil mark on the wall. Double-check it is level with the spirit level and nail it into place with 1-inch finish nails using a hammer and nail set to countersink the head. Repeat for the remaining three pieces, ensuring a tight fit at each mitered corner.

Apply caulk in the same color as the molding or paintable caulk over the nail heads and to fill any gaps between the wall and molding or fill any little gaps in your corners. Wipe it smooth with a cloth or your fingertip. Touch up with paint as necessary.