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How to Design Halo Canister Lights

Lighting affects how a room "feels" more than any other design element, so it is important to plan your lighting carefully. Lighting design is composed of three layers: general ambient lighting, task lighting and focal lighting. Halo is a popular brand of canister lights, frequently referred to as can lights, and their products are used in all three design capacities, but most frequently for ambient lighting. Several very accurate and complex methods exist for determining lighting needs and design, but there are also a few tricks of the trade that will do the job without performing complex lumen calculations.

Things You'll Need

  • Tape measure
  • Tracing paper
  • Scaled floor plan of the space
  • Masking tape
  • Scale
  • Lamp specifications
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Instructions

  1. General Ambient Lighting

    • 1

      Measure the ceiling height, then divide that number by two. This is the placing distance. This number is the rough distance that you will place between each Halo housing. For example, if you have an 8-foot ceiling, your placing distance will be 4 feet and you would place each Halo housing 4 feet apart. Without getting into too much detail, this number comes from the circular beam spread of the lamp. The beam spread is frequently between 35 and 60 degrees for this type of lamp. So, if you have a 60-degree beam spread cast onto a floor with an 8-foot ceiling, it will create a diameter of light that is approximately 9 feet. The light is the brightest at the center of the circle and gradually diminishes the further it is away from the center. In order to create an even distribution of illumination, the beams should overlap slightly.

    • 2

      Use a sheet of tracing paper and lay out a square grid of horizontal and vertical lines that are spaced per the placing distance, using the same scale as the floor plan. For example, if you have a floor plan that is drawn at 1/4-inch scale, you will use that same scale to draw your grid. Where each line intersects is where a Halo housing could be located. Next, mark the center of each square. Since our grid was created based on circular beam spreads, the center of each square will be a dark spot and also will need a can.

    • 3

      Tape your floor plan to a work surface. Place the grid that you just created over the floor plan and start looking at possible placement of the cans, moving the tracing paper to create the best placement of the housings. Ideally, the cans closest to the walls should be at least a couple of feet away from the walls. If there is a ceiling fan, make sure that you do not have any cans above it or you'll have a strobe effect. Also if there are any other ceiling light fixtures, such as pendants or chandeliers, mark it on your grid, as these will be used in place of cans. Finally, take note of architectural features and HVAC vents that will interfere with the placement of the canisters.

    • 4

      Mark on your plan where each can will go. There is some flexibility using the grid in residential use; you can give or take a foot on setting up the grid. However the function of the room plays a big part in deciding if you are happy with more or less light. In some spaces, like the kitchen or office, more light is a necessity, while in other spaces, like the family or dining room, too much light can feel oppressive.

    • 5

      Break the grid when necessary. The grid is just a rough guideline; feel free to adjust the grid when circumstances demand it. Also, not all rooms are rectangle. If your room has a nook, center a can within the parameters of the nook, rather than strictly maintaining the grid. This will function as task lighting to display something set in the alcove, or to properly illuminate a work space.