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How to Build Floating End Tables

Floating end tables are similar to floating shelves. They appear to cantilever directly out of the wall adjacent to the ends of the couch. This type of shelf is usually smaller than a standard end table and the lamp is often hung from the ceiling or wall rather than placed on top of the table. The end table is primarily used for a surface for holding drinks or a reading book or magazine. This style works best in modern or contemporary settings.

Things You'll Need

  • Stud finder
  • Level
  • Pencil
  • 1-by-1-inch board
  • Drill
  • Long threaded bolts
  • Nuts
  • Wrench
  • 3-inch screws
  • Screwdriver
  • 1-by-12-inch board
  • Table saw
  • Carpenter's glue
  • Finish nails
  • Wood clamps
  • Screws
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Instructions

    • 1

      Move a stud finder along the wall next to the sofa. Mark the locations of the studs. Use a level to draw a line across the location two studs even with the top of the arm of the sofa. The studs should be 16-inches on center. Repeat for the second side of the sofa if you want more than one table.

    • 2

      Cut three pieces of 1-by-1-inch board 18-inches long. Drill four holes identically spaced along two boards. The holes should be large enough to fit the dimensions of a long lag bolt. Recess drill one side of one board so that the head of the lag bolt will recess into the wood. Insert a lag bolt into the hole. Tighten the bolt in place with a nut. Allow at least 6 inches of thread to jut out on one side. Repeat for each hole.

    • 3

      Position the board over the stud marks on the line. Screw the cleat to the wall using 3-inch-long screws and a screwdriver into the studs. Use two screws into each stud. Slide the second board with holes over the lag screws 1-inch from the end using nuts and washers to lock the board into position.

    • 4

      Cut two pieces of 1-by-12-inch board 18-inches plus twice the thickness of the board long. Most wood sizing is not accurate. Measure the thickness of your 1-inch material for the actual thickness size.

    • 5

      Position one of the 1-by-12-inch boards on the table. Measure along one 18-inch side using the same thickness of the board measurement. Mark along the front edge and both 12-inch sides. Draw lines connecting your marks on each side. Repeat for the second board.

    • 6

      Apply a bead of Carpenter's glue to your second 1-by-1-inch board. Position the board inside the front line with each end aligned with the side lines. Turn the boards upside down and shoot finish nails through the 1-by-12-inch board into the 1-by-1-inch board. Space your nails 4-inches apart.

    • 7

      Cut two pieces of 1-by-12-inch board the thickness of the 1-by-1-inch board. Trim the end of the two boards to fit from the back of your board to your front line measurement. Cut one piece of 1-by-12-inch board the thickness of the 1-by-1-inch board and the full width of the two large boards.

    • 8

      Apply glue to each side board along the side of the 1-by-1-inch board and the long edge of the side board. Align the board with the side and the back of the large top board. Turn the board upside down to shoot nails through the top board into the ends of the side board. Repeat for the second side. Glue and attach the front facing board in the same manner. You should have a large flat board on the table with three narrow sides and a support board near the front.

    • 9

      Apply glue to all of the top-facing surfaces and position your second large flat board over the top. Shoot finish nails through the top board into the sides and front spacing your nails every 4 inches. Wipe off any excess glue. Allow the glue to dry for 24 hours.

    • 10

      Slide the table over the cleat until it is snug on the wall. Screw through the bottom to attach the table to the wall board and the secondary cleat board. Use at least four screws evenly spaced apart. Your screws should not come through the top of the table. Fill any small nail holes with wood fill and paint or stain your floating table.