The easiest approach to blocking moisture migration through concrete flooring is to first install a reinforced polyethylene film or membrane, or a membrane that has been coated with polyethylene on both sides. The film should be 8 millimeters thick, and any seams should include a 6- to 8-inch overlap. Most homeowners then top that layer off with an insulating foam underlayment for increased warmth and comfort before installing the wood floor itself.
There are advantages to using one flooring material that combines the functions of a moisture barrier and a foam pad. The combined underlayment is easier to lay in place during installation and installs in half the time. The combined products also ease the process of installing the actual floor because it behaves as a nonslip surface. The foam itself assists the vapor barrier by preventing moisture condensation, as well as providing some acoustic insulation properties.
Liquid-applied barriers are applied in a thick coat using a trowel or roller to form a permanent film that adheres to the concrete. They provide a layer of confidence that flexible barrier films do not, because they give you no reason to worry about seams or pinholes in the membrane that might lead to vapor leaks. Some liquid-applied vapor barriers incorporate a floor adhesive into their formula to enable same-day installation of engineered wood flooring systems.
Many individuals are sensitive to chemicals that are found in some foam underlayment systems. Families with young children or allergy-sensitive adults may want to avoid materials that include formaldehyde and phthalate plasticizers. Liquid moisture barriers may contain high levels of volatile organic compounds (VOCs), which might trigger allergic reactions, but there are low-VOC versions of these products as well. For optimal indoor air quality, look for a moisture-barrier system that has been certified safe by nonprofit organizations such as the Greenguard Environmental Institute or Scientific Certification Systems.