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How to: Faux Staircase Wainscoting

Paneling below a chair railing is often called wainscoting. The most common form of this type of paneling is beadboard. Installing real beadboard is not hard, but it can be expensive and leave a lot of glue or nail holes in a wall. If you want the look in your stairwell but you don't want the expense, holes or glue, creating faux wainscoting may be the answer. Most homeowners can easily do this project in a few hours.

Things You'll Need

  • Painter's tape
  • Tape measure
  • Plastic sheeting
  • Off-white satin or pearl wall paint
  • Foam roller and tray
  • Squeegee
  • Ruler
  • Utility knife
  • Paint glaze
  • White satin or pearl paint
  • Stir stick
  • 1-by-3-inch board
  • Table saw
  • Small wood blocks
  • Hammer
  • Small nails
  • Level
  • Artist brush
  • Glossy clear paint
  • Top trim
  • Miter saw
  • Construction adhesive
  • Caulk
  • Caulk gun
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Instructions

    • 1

      Tape off the bottom third of the staircase wall, using painter's tape. Your tape should be from 32 to 36 inches from the floor and it should follow the exact angle of the staircase. Use a measuring tape at the top and bottom stair and stretch a string along your marks. Align your tape to the string. Repeat this on both sides of the stairs and on the bottom and top landings if you want to continue the look.

    • 2

      Place plastic sheeting over the stairs and floors. Paint the walls with an off-white or beige satin or pearl wall paint, using a foam roller and tray. Allow the paint to dry for four to six hours. Paint a second coat. Allow the paint to dry overnight.

    • 3

      Place a 6-inch squeegee against a ruler on the work table. Measure 1 inch. Cut a 1/8-inch-wide notch out of the rubber from the edge to the grip, using a utility knife. Keep the notch sides straight.

    • 4

      Measure from the notch 3/8 inch. Cut another 1/8-inch-wide notch. Measure 1 1/2 inches. Cut a 1/8-inch-wide notch. Measure 3/8 inch. Cut a notch. Measure 1 1/2 inches and cut a notch. Continue across the squeegee.

    • 5

      Mix three parts of paint glaze with one part of white satin or pearl paint. Cut a 1-by-3-inch board 38 inches long, using a table saw. Nail a small wood block near each end, using a hammer and small nails. Tape a small level to the center of the wood. You'll use this as a guide to keep your lines straight.

    • 6

      Roll your white glaze mixture in a vertical section 12 inches wide. Place your wood guide vertically so the blocks are above and below your paint area. The blocks hold the wood away from the paint. Adjust the board until the level is straight. Drag the squeegee through the paint, using the edge of the board as a guide. If you are right-handed, start on the right side of a wall and work to the left. Move the board and line up the squeegee over the last marks. Work fast as glaze dries faster than paint.

    • 7

      Remove the tape and touch up the details with a small artist's brush. Allow the paint to dry completely. Tape off the area again and paint a glossy clear finish over the faux paint. This will protect the finish. Cut real wood top trim, using a miter saw, and glue it over the top line, using construction adhesive. Paint the top trim the same color and finish. Add caulk along any seam edges for authenticity, using a caulk gun.