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How to Shingle a Wall

When you want a home to have beachfront appeal, add cedar shake shingles to its exterior walls in place of siding. Place shingles over tar paper and use furring strips to allow the wall to breathe and prevent dry rot. If you want your exterior walls to have a deep rich color, add a clear coat or stain for color. Cedar wood shingles work the best, as they are bug resistant and weather nicely.

Things You'll Need

  • Tar paper
  • Wood shingle shakes
  • 1-by-2 furring strips
  • Trim piece
  • Roofing nails
  • Framing nails
  • Hammer
  • Tape measure
  • Carpenter's ruler
  • Carpenter's pencil
  • Level
  • Chalk line
  • Ladder
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Instructions

    • 1

      Measure the wall's height and width to get the square footage for the wall. Divide the square footage by a roofing square to calculate the number of squares needed for the wall. A wall 16 feet wide and 9 feet tall equates to 144 square feet. Shingles sell by the "roofing square," which equates to 100 square feet, therefore a 16-by-9 foot wall requires 1 1/2 roofing squares.

    • 2

      Secure felt or tar paper to the exterior of the wall, starting at the bottom and working up. Lay each course of tar paper over the one below it to prevent water from getting underneath the tar paper when it rains.

    • 3

      Decide on the overlap for the shingle courses. Most wood shingles are approximately 18 inches long. Create a minimum lap of 6 inches.

    • 4

      Calculate the length of the 1-by-2 furring or nailing strip by using the wall's previously measured length. Purchase enough strips for each of the course of shingles on the wall. A wall 9 feet tall using a cedar shake 18 inches long with a 6-inch overlay will require a minimum of nine nailing strips running the length of the wall.

    • 5

      Mark the first mark for the furring or nailing strip 18 inches up the wall at both ends using the tape measure to determine the distance. Make every mark thereafter 12 inches up the wall for the overlay of 6 inches of the shingles over the course below.

    • 6

      Secure one end of the chalk line at one mark and run the chalk line out to the next mark. Hold the chalk line flat and tight against the wall. Lift the line between two fingers, keeping the line taut, and let it snap back in place against the wall. It will leave a line on the wall. Repeat this for every line up the wall.

    • 7

      Set the first furring strip at the 18-inch mark. Place the level on the furring strip to ensure the strip is level. Secure it to the wall with a framing nail every 16 inches. Use 1 1/2- to 2-inch galvanized nails that will go through the 1-inch nailing strip and adhere to the exterior sheathing underneath the tar paper.

    • 8

      Nail all the furring strips in place in the same manner as in Step 7.

    • 9

      Start the first course of shingles by nailing the first shingle to the nailing strip with the small flat roofing nails. Use one or two nails per shingle. Lay the complete first course of shingles. Lay a second course of shingles directly over the first for the bottom row, but stagger this course over the seam lines of the last course. Only the bottom row has two courses of shingles for added protection.

    • 10

      Attach the next course of shingles in the same fashion, but stagger it so the shingle seams are not equal to the one below. Use a half shingle for the first shingle. Because the next course of shingles is only up the wall 12 inches, 6 inches will overhang the bottom course of shingles and cover the nails. Repeat courses until the wall is finished, ensuring no side shingle seam lines up with one below. Cover the top course with a trim piece of wood to cover the nail holes. Secure it every 2 or 3 feet as necessary. Use finish nails countersunk and filled with wood putty the color of the wood. Stain as desired.