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My GE Washer Is Still Leaking After the Tub Seal Was Replaced

When your GE washer is still leaking after the tub seal has been replaced, it is time to return to troubleshooting. There are several potential causes for a leaking washing machine, ranging from a damaged transmission to worn-out hoses or even a plumbing problem that is unrelated to the washer. Locate the leak, inspect to find the cause, gather your supplies to repair or call a professional to get your GE washer functioning properly again.
  1. Locate

    • Determining the location of the leak will help you resolve the problem. If your GE washer is constantly leaking, including when it is not in use, the culprit could be the water valve or fill hoses. The water valve could also be responsible for the leak if it occurs only during the fill cycle. Another possibility is the water level control switch. A leak that only occurs during washing is often caused by the drain hose or pump. The drainpipe could be the source if the leak if it happens following the rinse cycle as water is being pumped out of the GE washer.

    Inspect

    • Insert a butter knife around the rim of the front washer panel and push the panel clips to remove. Even though the tub seal has been replaced, you need to inspect this area. If water is still leaking around the seals, it is likely the transmission that is damaged. Check the drain hose and pump for signs of water. If the area behind the front panel is not where the leak is occurring, pull the washer out from the wall and inspect the hoses to determine if water is leaking from these areas. With a screwdriver, remove the control panel and check the water valve for leaks. If dripping water is not spotted, turn on the washer and then check the valve again. Wait a few seconds for water to begin filling in the tub and then stop the cycle by turning off the washer. If water continues to run after you stop the machine, your problem is with the water valve. However, if water ceases to continue filling when the cycle is stopped, the water level control switch may be in need of repair. Turn the washer on and check the drainpipe from the plumbing during the spin cycle. If water overflows, you have a plumbing problem unrelated to the washer.

    Gather Supplies

    • Once you have located the leak and determined the problem, you can call a professional or attempt to tackle the problem yourself. If you choose the latter, gather a wrench and screwdriver to remove damaged parts and replace them. A bucket will also come in handy for catching excess water. If the transmission is the culprit, the cost for the new part may exceed the value of the machine and it may be time for a new washer. Hiring a licensed plumber is strongly recommended if the problem is unrelated to the machine and deemed a plumbing issue. An ohmmeter or voltmeter is required to test the water control switch to determine if it needs replacing.

    Repair

    • Before attempting to repair the leak, turn off the washer and unplug it. Disconnect the water. If the hoses are the problem, and use a wrench to loosen, remove and replace. Also, remove the hoses if you are replacing the water valve. Place the hoses in the bucket for excess water to drain. Locate the two coils known as solenoids on the valve. Put a label on each of the two wires leading to the solenoid so you will remember how to reconnect. Squeeze the connectors on the wires tightly to remove, tugging from the connector and not the wire. Unscrew the valve and remove the clamp from the attached hose. Toss the damaged water valve and replace, and then reverse the steps to reconnect.