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How to Test a Maytag PTB1553GRW Refrigerator Relay

Refrigerator compressors cycle on and off during normal operation and a device called a “start relay” supplies the initial current boost required to get the compressor going. Early models of the Maytag Performa PTB1553GRW refrigerator were fitted with an expensive electro/mechanical start relay, but this was soon replaced by a cheaper and more reliable PTC solid state relay. Since PTC relays are inexpensive and require specialized equipment for testing, replace the unit if your refrigerator fails to start. On the other hand, if you have an older model with an electro/mechanical relay, test the unit before buying a costly replacement.

Things You'll Need

  • Flat-bladed screwdriver
  • Needle nose pliers
  • 120-grit emery paper
  • Crimp-on spade connector
  • Side cutters
  • Crimping pliers
  • Multimeter
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Instructions

    • 1

      Move the refrigerator away from the wall and unplug the power cord from the wall outlet.

    • 2

      Look under the lower opening on the back of the refrigerator and locate the large round black compressor with a metal terminal box fitted to its side. Pry the tension-retaining clip on the box sideways with a flat-bladed screwdriver and remove the terminal box lid.

    • 3

      Inspect the interior of the box; if it contains a shiny black tubular component, it’s a PTC solid state relay. Simply unplug the two wire spade connectors with a pair of insulated needle nose pliers, unscrew the securing tab and replace the unit. If there’s a bulky oblong unit wound with a heavy copper wire coil, this is an electro/mechanical compressor start relay.

    • 4

      Pull the electro/mechanical compressor relay straight off from the compressor. Once it is free, grip the single wire spade connector with a pair of needle nose pliers and unplug the connector from the relay.

    • 5

      Inspect the terminal and connector for corrosion. If you see any corrosion, clean both faces with 120-grit emery paper. If the spade connector is badly corroded, replace it with a new crimp-on spade connector.

    • 6

      Clip the wire close to the terminal with a pair of side cutters and strip off 1/4-inch of insulation from the end. Twist the bare wire and insert it into a new crimp-on spade connector. Clamp the end of the connector between the jaws of a pair of crimping pliers and squeeze the handles together.

    • 7

      Place the relay upside down on your workbench. Adjust your multimeter to the X1 ohms setting and switch it on. Slide one of the multimeter probes into the terminal on the white plastic base labeled “S” and the other probe into the terminal labeled “M.” The multimeter should display a zero ohms reading, indicating continuity.

    • 8

      Turn the start relay over to its upright position with the probes still in place. Listen for a distinctive “click” as the internal magnetic switch engages. The multimeter should now display a reading of infinity.

    • 9

      Rotate the start relay back to the upside down position. Leave the "S" terminal in place. Remove the probe from the “M” terminal and place it against the bare terminal on the side labeled “L.” The reading should drop back to zero ohms.

    • 10

      Turn the relay back to the upside down position with the “S” probe still in place and place other probe on the "L" terminal once again; the reading should remain at zero.

    • 11

      Replace the compressor relay if it fails any of the above tests. If the relay is good, plug it back into the compressor, connect the wire and replace the terminal box lid. Plug the refrigerator power cord back into the outlet to see if it starts; cleaning or replacing the spade connector may have corrected the fault.

    • 12

      Call a refrigerator technician to trace the fault and to test the compressor itself if the refrigerator does not start.