A loose power cord can result in the refrigerator not cooling. Check the outlet to confirm that the refrigerator is plugged in. Even if it is, give it a secure push to confirm that it is firmly in the outlet.
The refrigerator might have blown a fuse or tripped a circuit breaker. Look in your fuse box or breaker box to determine if this is the cause of the cooling problem. Reset any tripped breaker or replace a blown fuse if you discover that to be the problem.
On the upper rear wall of the refrigerator is where you can find the refrigerator temperature controls. You can change the setting to cool the refrigerator. For the freezer, find the control on the left front ceiling in the freezer. You can adjust this setting as needed. The default setting for each is “4,” with the coolest setting being “7.” It takes 24 hours for a setting change to take effect fully.
If you notice that the freezer control light is on, it means that the unit is undergoing a defrost cycle. You must wait 40 minutes for it to complete. Once that period is up, the refrigerator should restart and resume cooling.
Remove the crisper drawer so that you can access the air vents. If you notice anything blocking vents, move the object to another part of the refrigerator. Blocked air vents restrict airflow in the unit, which makes it warmer as a result.
Pull the toe grille off the bottom of the refrigerator so that you can access the condenser coils. Use a vacuum hose to clean off the coils before replacing the toe grille. Coils are also on the back of unit, which you can access by pulling the unit away from the wall. Clean in the same manner. This cleaning needs to be done every three months to keep the unit cooling properly.