Level the new GE heater in place of the old one by laying a carpenter’s level across the top of the heater prior to attempting to attach any of the hookups. Check the level’s readout to ensure that the new heater rests in place perfectly level. If it isn’t, a proper connective seal between the hookups can’t be attained. If the heater is off, plastic or wooden shims placed under the lip of the underside of the heater should level it off.
Measure the plumbing lines from the house’s main water supply to that of the unit with the tape measure. Ideally, the new heater’s piping should be of the exact length as the old heater that’s being replaced, but if that’s not the case you need to either cut the existing pipes to length or, in most cases, add additional length to ensure a tight connection. Do this by measuring the distance between the house hookups and the heater and cutting additional piping using a hacksaw to cover the gap.
Douse the hot and cold water connections with soapy water and look for bubbling between the joints. If there is bubbling, that means the joints are improperly sealed and air is leaking at the connection points. Backtrack over your work to ensure the connections are fitted properly or in a pinch apply a bead of silicone around the joints to seal them.
Check the voltage of the new heater against the volts on the circuit on the breaker. Most modern heaters can handle around 220 amps; if your heater can handle more than what the house circuit delivers, there shouldn’t be an issue. However, if the house puts out more than the heater can handle, there may be an issue.