How to Install a Fume Hood

Preparation and Installation

• 1

  Determine where to install your fume hood. Take into account traffic flow and the location of ducts, plumbing and wiring (these may need to be added). Do not place the hood near doors or windows to avoid difficulties with cross-drafts.

• 2

  Make sure work surfaces are clean.

• 3

  With glue or epoxy, fasten the stainless steel top of the fume hood in place and make sure it is stable.

• 4

  Make sure your base cabinets are where you want them in the lab.

• 5

  Remove packing and protective material from the hood.

• 6

  Take off the two wood screws and the tape that hold the blocking wood on both sides of the sash channel.

• 7

  Remove the unpainted weight blocking wood on the top; this wood is on both sides and is held down with tape. Do not remove the weight stop.

• 8

  Using a clutch drill or a Philips, remove the two screws on the side panel top.

• 9

  Loosen the bolt that joins the post front to the frame and side panel.

• 10

  You should be able to reach the bottom bolt through the interior access panel. It is supposed to be loose. Pull up the side panel, then pull out; this releases a clip that is welded to the side panel. The panel should come off.

• 11

  Repeat steps 8-10 for the other side panel.

• 12

  Remove the skids by unscrewing the two wood screws on each side that attach the unit to the skids.

• 13

  Place the hood on the deck. You may need to use a lift. You will not be able to do this alone. Wear leather gloves and do not lift using the airfoil to avoid damage.

• 14

  Make sure the sash operates smoothly, has no gaps and does not stick; check pulleys, cables and counterweights. Lubricate the cables with lithium-based grease if required by the manufacturer.

• 15

  Using a masonry drill bit to get through the epoxy, drill through the top, 9/64 inches. The hood has holes to serve as a guide. After making sure that the unit is placed properly and that the sash opens, attach the frame to the deck with #8 x 5/8 inch S.S. sheet metal screws.

• 16

  Use sheet metal screws or 5/8-inch hi-lo fasteners to secure the hood at the frame mounting holes on the bottom front of the unit. There are four holes, two on each side.

• 17

  Connect main electrical power to the hood. There should be no exposed wires. Connections should be good, and not open.

• 18

  The hood's "J" box is fastened to the back of the hood on the right hand side. Make the electrical connection.

• 19

  Screw in 40-watt fluorescent bulbs and test to see if electrical connection is working. Do the same with the hood's other electrical equipment, such as the blower.

• 20

  Connect the building's HVAC system to the hood. This should only be done by a trained HVAC professional.

• 21

  Connect plumbing. Pipes can be run from above, up, down or behind. Plumbing should be done only by a licensed plumber, according to local codes.

• 22

  Replace the side panels by loosely inserting the 1/4-20 frame bolt at the top of the frame front/front post. Keep this connection loose.

• 23

  Push in the bottom side panel clip and slide the keyway into the bottom frame; as the bottom part of the keyway slides down approximately 1/8 to 1/4 of the way, you'll be able to get the top keyway in as well.

• 24

  Push the side panel down and tighten all bolts. Repeat for the other side. Reinsert the four self taping screws from the top.

• 25

  Caulk around the hood and work surface using a silicone sealant. If the lab is in an earthquake-prone area, consult authorities for any other stabilization requirements.

Mounting

• 26

  Surface-mount the fume hood monitor (required by OSHA and sold separately).

• 27

  Have the fume hood's baffles adjusted by safety personnel or trained air flow experts. These individuals must also calibrate the hood's low flow alarm.

• 28

  Once the hood is installed and all connections are made, test the equipment and have it certified as required by law.