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How to Grow Tomatoes in a Bed Where Potatoes Just Grew

In theory, it's not advisable to grow tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) in the bed most recently occupied by potatoes (Solanum tuberosum). That's because the two vegetables, both members of the Solanaceae (nightshade) family, share many of the same pests known for overwintering in the soil and attacking nightshade plants in the spring. In addition, your potato vines will have used up many of the soil nutrients now needed by tomatoes. Sometimes, however, you don't have enough garden space to avoid planting one nightshade crop following another. Minimize the usual problems by growing a nitrogen-rich cover crop during the winter. In addition, solarize the soil just before planting tomatoes to kill disease spores and insect eggs that may be left in the soil.

Things You'll Need

  • Rake
  • Spade or hand tiller
  • Red clover seed
  • Winter wheat or rye seed
  • Straw
  • Garden hose or drip irrigation system
  • Plastic tarp or tarps (1.5 to 2 mil thickness)
  • Rocks or lumber (as needed)
  • Bone meal
  • Epsom salts
  • Compost
  • Tomato stakes or cages (if using)
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Instructions

    • 1

      Rake up and remove all remaining parts of the potato vines and tubers. This reduces the chances of pests overwintering in the soil.

    • 2

      Till the soil and rake it smooth.

    • 3

      Broadcast equal parts red clover and a companion crop, such as rye or wheat, evenly over the soil. Use about 0.5 ounces of seeds for each crop, per 100 square feet.

    • 4

      Spread straw over the seed to keep it in place.

    • 5

      Water the area lightly.

    • 6

      Till the bed in the spring, when the clover first begins to flower. Make sure the vegetation is completely incorporated into the soil, where it will decompose quickly.

    • 7

      Rake the tilled area, breaking up earth clods and removing stones and branches as you work.

    • 8

      Moisten the area thoroughly with a garden hose.

    • 9

      Place a clear plastic tarp directly over the garden bed. Bury the perimeter of the tarp in the soil, and weigh down with stones or lumber.

    • 10

      Leave the tarp in place for at least four weeks.

    • 11

      Remove the tarp.

    • 12

      Dig a hole to plant your first tomato seedling. Tomato plants should be set into the garden in early summer, once all danger of frost is gone. The hole should be about the same width, and few inches deeper, than the height of your tomato seedling pot. Sprinkle a handful of bone meal, 1 teaspoon of Epson salts and 3 inches of compost into the bottom of the hole. Set the seedling in the hole and backfill with soil from the hole.

    • 13

      Plant additional tomato plants in the same way. Space them at least 2 feet apart for vertically-grown tomatoes and at least 4 feet apart for those grown without support.

    • 14

      Set stakes or tomato cages around tomato seedlings, if you are using them.

    • 15

      Give tomato plants about 1 inch of water per week throughout the growing season.

    • 16

      Feed tomato plants regularly. Digging in a 1 inch layer of compost around each tomato plant each month provides nutrients, as does a weekly watering of liquid seaweed plant food.

    • 17

      Watch for signs of diseases and pests common to both potatoes and tomatoes. If tomato plants lose the majority of their leaves quickly, or exhibit dark splotches along the foliage, remove and dispose of infested plants. Hand-pick beetles from tomatoes and drop them into soapy water.