Prune rose bushes toward the end of the dormant season. This is before the plant's canes, or stems, begin to produce buds, but after the threat of frost has passed. Because actively growing rose plants are more affected by heavy pruning, only light trimming to remove dead or diseased parts of the plant, or to thin out heavily clustered canes, should occur during monthly maintenance trims.
Remove any debris, including dead leaves or grass, from the ground around the bottom of the plant, extending about a foot from the main stem of the plant. This decaying matter can support insects as well as disease-inducing mold or fungus that may infest the plant.
Wear heavy-duty gloves to cut away dead and diseased parts of the plant with pruning shears. Examine the cane and find the point at which dead wood meets live wood. Dead wood is typically dark gray or black, while live wood has a greenish-white color. Make the cut into live wood, at about one inch above the closest dormant bud, at a 45-degree angle. If severe disease or infestation is present, the whole cane may need to be removed. This is done in the same way as partial cane removal, except the cut is made at the junction between two canes.
Look at the plant and choose three to six canes that are the thickest, the most sturdy, and show no signs of disease or infestation. These canes should originate from the middle of the plant and be evenly distributed around it. Cut away all other canes. This drastic pruning technique promotes vigorous growth and prolific flowering.
Trim the three to six chosen canes so they are 1 to 3 feet tall. Seal all cut areas with a sealing compound specifically made for rose bushes. This will prevent infestation of beetles.