Although it may be your first instinct to contact the manufacturer about a rusted tool, do not get too excited about that idea working out. Most of the top brands in tool manufacturing consider rust to be a cosmetic defect. Therefore, rust is not covered under product warranties for many tool brands.
Technically, rust is an electrochemical corrosion that occurs on products containing iron and iron alloys. Iron alloys include stainless steel, stain-resistant steel, nickel and cobalt. Iron and iron alloys that are rusting are really corroding, and rust will corrode its way through any iron or iron alloy it can reach.
Many people wrongly belief that stainless steel is impervious to rust. Although the iron in stainless steel has a film of chromium oxide to help it block corrosion, the long-term effects of exposure to water and oxygen will eventually turn stainless steel and stain-resistant steel into iron oxide, also known as rust.
Lightly sand mild rust with fine-grain sandpaper and dust the area when finished. For rust that is a little heavier, apply a phosphoric acid-based cleaner to the rust. Phosphoric acid-based cleaners convert iron oxide (rust) into a black-colored ferric phosphate, which can be scrubbed off, taking the rust with it. Referred to as naval jelly, rust killer or rust remover, these phosphoric acid-based cleaners work best on light or mild rust. Rust removal products can be found at home-improvement stores and some auto supply stores.
Removing heavy rust on tools is possible, but requires several steps and may not get rid of all the rust. Sanding topical rust is necessary, either using handheld sandpaper or an electric sander. For heavy rust, soak rusty tools in a rust killer containing phosphoric acid and following manufacturer instructions. After sanding and using rust-removing chemicals, it may be possible---depending on the tool---to paint or spray paint treated rust areas with anticorrosive primers, finishing with a coat of rust-resistant paint.