Lawn Grading Preparation

Dig a trowel into the dirt to a depth of about 6 inches. Pull up the soil and empty it into a container. Take additional soil samples from 10 to 15 other locations around the lawn and mix the soil together. Allow the soil to dry thoroughly and send it to a soil lab for analysis. The lab results will indicate whether you need to adjust the pH or add other soil amendments prior to installing a new lawn.

Remove rocks, large roots and other debris from the lawn.

Remove the topsoil if you plan to do extensive grading. Set it aside and wait to replace it until after you have done a rough grade.

Add herbicide for weed control, if desired. Apply a nonselective herbicide to the soil, such as glyphosate.

Complete a rough grade of the lawn if you have removed the topsoil. Slope the ground away from the house at a decline of about 6 to 12 inches per 50 feet.

Use a rototiller on the subgrade soil to break up the compacted earth and redistribute the topsoil over it. Your lawn should have at least 8 to 10 inches of topsoil. If you need additional material, add sufficient amounts of peat moss or leaf mold to reach this depth.

Add soil amendments to the lawn if your soil test results recommend it. The test results will instruct you to add a certain amount of lime, if necessary, to adjust the pH. Add a starter fertilizer, if desired, such as 5-10-15 or 5-10-10. Use 20 to 30 lbs. per 1,000 square feet.

Use a rototiller to mix in the soil amendments to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. After this, your lawn is ready for the final grading.