Collect a soil sample for testing. The University of Connecticut Soil Testing Lab, the university's Home and Garden Center and all cooperative extension offices throughout the state perform soil tests. The lab result detail what nutrients the soil has and lacks. It also will reveal how to amend the ground so it can support the grass.
Rototill the lawn area and remove all large debris, including rocks and roots. Spread a 2- to 3-inch layer of compost or manure over the area. Incorporate it into the ground to a depth of 4 inches. Apply the soil amendments recommended in the soil test result.
Rake the planting bed to a smooth surface. Grade it so that it slopes away from buildings to prevent water infiltration and damage to foundations. If the bed has sunken areas, fill them with topsoil to make them level with the rest of the surface. Likewise, if you notice mounds, shave the top off. It's a lot easier to mow grass that grows on even terrain.
Seed the area or install sod. The soil preparation is the same for either method, but the planting is different. Seeding is easier and less expensive. If you seed, divide the lawn into two halves. Apply the first half by moving a broadcaster back and fourth in the same direction. Sow the other half by going in the opposite direction. To install sod, hire a professional lawn service or get instructions from a local cooperative extension office.
Water the planting area immediately after sowing the seeds or laying sod. Irrigate seeds lightly to keep them moist. Seeds won't germinate if they dry out. In particularly hot, dry or windy conditions, set the sprinkler to moisten the seeds as many as three times in one day. Sod, on the other hand, has roots and needs deep irrigation from the start. Apply 1 inch of water within 20 minutes of installing sod, even if you haven't finished covering the entire yard. The grass won't recover if its roots become dry. Continue giving sod 1 inch of water weekly until new growth emerges. After this initial period of seed germination or sod establishment, reduce the water. The University of Connecticut recommends watering fescue "only when absolutely needed." Look for signs of wilting and apply 1 inch of water in one installment. One deep soaking is better to promote strong root development than several light irrigation sessions.
Feed the lawn a slow-release organic nitrogen fertilizer. Apply 1 lb. per 1,000 square feet in spring and the same amount in the fall. In Connecticut, complete fall fertilizing by October 15.
Mow the grass to a height no shorter than 2 inches, to encourage deep root development, which keeps the grass strong against weeds and disease. A taller height also helps fescue to retain moisture.