How to Make Garden Elves

Make Clay Pieces

• 1

  Wedge (dash together) clay to remove air bubbles and excess moisture, making the clay easier to work with. Separate clay into manageable chunks. Throw the chunks against the wedging table, repeatedly, kneading the chunks to force out air and help incorporate the recycled clay.

• 2

  Roll four clay spheres: two that are 2 inches in diameter and two that are 4 inches.

• 3

  Hold one of the larger spheres in the palm of your non-dominant hand. Press your thumb into the center of the sphere while applying gentle pressure to the exterior of the sphere with your other fingers. Pinch and rotate the sphere to form a bowl. Ensure that the wall is 1/4-inch to 1/2-inch thick.

• 4

  Repeat to form three more bowls with the remaining spheres. Set aside the larger bowls.

• 5

  Invert the smaller bowls and tap the lip of the bowl against a flat tabletop to create a flat lip. Wet a toothbrush with water and brush the clay lip to texturize it, creating a thin layer of slurry, which is a paste made from clay and water.

• 6

  Apply a thick slurry to the lip of each bowl. Fit the lips of the smaller bowls together to form a sphere. Turn the bowls slightly in the opposite direction while pressing together to smooth the slurry that connects the bowls. Use a scraper to diagonally smooth the seam. Apply additional slurry or clay to the seam to strengthen it. Set the sphere aside as this is the head.

• 7

  Repeat Steps 5 and 6 with the larger bowls to create a sphere for the torso.

• 8

  Wrap the pieces in plastic and set aside.

• 9

  Roll clay into a 1/4- to 1/2-inch thick sheet on top of a burlap cloth. Cut out two rectangular sheets that measure 6-1/2 inches wide and 7 inches long to form the arms. Cut two additional rectangles for the legs measuring 7-1/2 inches wide and 9 inches long.

• 10

  Roll the rectangles into tubes along the shorter side. The two arm tubes should measure about 2 inches in diameter and 7 inches long. The legs will measure 3-1/2 inches in diameter and 9 inches long.

• 11

  Attach the arms to the right and left side of the torso sphere near the top. Scrub the ends of the tube and the surface of the sphere with a moist brush and apply slurry. Place the end of the tube against the sphere. Smooth the clay down onto the surface until smooth. Position the arms across the torso or as desired. Use a clay carrot to support arms that are angled up or out.

• 12

  Cut a 1/4-inch wide by 2- or 3-inch-long slit in the base of the sphere where the legs will attach.

• 13

  Repeat Step 10 to position the legs on the lower half of the torso sphere. Bend and press the ends of the legs to form wrinkled pants.

• 14

  Roll four ovular spheres 3 inches long and 1/2 inch thick. Carve and mold the ovals to form hands and feet. Attach the pieces to the base of the limb tubes. If the elf has baggy clothing and the hands or feet are not visible, carve only a few digits and attach them to the base of the pants.

• 15

  Lay the body on the side so the weight of the torso is not supported by the legs. surround the body with clay pieces to support the limbs. Wrap the body in plastic and set aside.

• 16

  Use your fingers to mold the head into the desired shape. Add an ovular piece of clay to either side of the head to form ears. Add a clay carrot to the front of the piece as a nose. Attach clay with a wet brush and slurry. Use your thumbs to create the curve of the eye sockets, cheeks and chin. Cut a 1/2-inch hole in the bottom of the head where the neck is located.

• 17

  Craft desired accessories such as a hat, trowel, spade, basket or animal companion. Elves are often depicted with pointed caps.

• 18

  Wrap the head and accessories loosely in plastic tarp. Dry all pieces overnight or until most of the moisture has evaporated and are leather hard.

• 19

  Carve details such as facial features. Use fabric and carving tools to texture the clothing and skin. Roll clay into thin snakes or plates and press the pieces onto the head as hair.

• 20

  Carve a hole in the top of the torso where the neck is located. Use a wet brush and slurry to attach the head to the body. Wrap a sheet of clay around the union to span the gap between the spheres forming the neck.

• 21

  Make sure the statue is hollow. Carve additional holes at the back of the neck and in the feet or head to ensure there are no air pockets. Trapped air can cause an explosion in your kiln.

• 22

  Fire the piece as directed by the clay and kiln manufacturers. Use kiln cones to measure the temperature of your oven. Allow the statue to cool at a natural pace inside the kiln. Fire and anneal the statue a second time.

Decorate

• 23

  Paint the statue with marine varnish, spar urethane or a similar protective coating designed for outdoor use. Coat the inside of the statue by inverting the pieces, filling the leg cavity with coating and swirling it around the inside. Complete two or three coats both inside and out.

• 24

  Dry the pieces in a well-ventilated area for 48 to 72 hours or as directed by the manufacturer.

• 25

  Paint the statue with acrylic paint as desired. Dry overnight.

• 26

  Apply one or two coats of varnish or spar urethane. Dry thoroughly before use.

• 27

  Reapply the clear protective coating as needed. Prolong the life of your statue by placing it on a gravel, concrete or brick surface instead of directly on the ground where it's exposed to constant moisture.