Lawn Care and Moss Control in Ohio

Grass Height

• No matter what kind of gasoline or electric mower you use on your lawn, the machine must have sharp blades that adjust to the turf’s correct cutting height. During photosynthesis, grass blades produce sugars that feed individual plants -- lawns in Ohio that are cut too deeply may develop shallow root systems and not stay green. Raising mower blades during periods of drought or extreme summer heat eases lawn stress. You can cut Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass and fine fescues to about 2 to 2.5 inches high during spring and fall. Tall fescue is best at 2.5 to 3 inches. Raise the cutting height on your mower to 2.5 to 3 inches for all cool-season grass types during the summer. Twice-weekly cutting may be necessary if the lawn grows more 1/3 of an inch since the previous mowing.

Mowing

• Changing mowing routes every couple of sessions helps grass to grow straight, making it easier to cut. Although mowers perform better on dry grass, do not wait until the lawn is completely dry, or it might be too high during prolonged periods of rainfall. Continue mowing in the fall if the grass is still growing -- you can shorten the mowing height during the last couple of cuttings. Allowing grass clippings to mulch into the lawn helps it to retain nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Have your mower serviced in early spring, and sharpen its blades as necessary.

Fertilizing

• Regular fertilizing keeps grass growing lush and green. Because pH levels vary in Ohio lawns, soil testing helps to determine which chemical mixtures are best, advises Ohio State University Extension. Ideal soil pH is 6.0 to 7.0. Fertilizers are labeled by weight: For example, a 20-10-10 mixture contains 2 parts nitrogen, 1 part phosphorus and 1 part potassium. Ohio lawns typically prefer mixtures of 3-1-2, 4-1-2 or 5-1-2. Although some homeowners prefer to fertilize in early spring and summer, doing so in August through December helps prevent disease and chemical burn in Ohio lawns. Fertilize several times throughout the growing season, about 8 to 10 weeks apart. To prevent burn, spread slow-release chemicals evenly over dry grass. Water the turf thoroughly.

Thatch

• Stems, roots and rhizomes growing together create layers of grass that develop above the soil. Thatch, a tightly-woven rug of vegetation, can die and rot while causing new growth to choke under the soil. Because bluegrass and some fescues are more susceptible to excess growth than others, thatch buildup of more than 1/2 inch keeps lawns from receiving water and nutrients. Regular mowing, raking and fertilizing help to control thatch.

Weeds

• Weeds grow quickly in Ohio lawns; broadleaf control herbicides can be effective if the right kinds of chemicals are used. Herbicides are developed for particular kinds of weeds -- what may work on one may not work on another. Postemergent weed herbicides suitable for Kentucky bluegrass, tall and fine fescues and perennial ryegrass include dicamba, 4-DP and MCPP in liquid and granular forms. Apply postemergent herbicides in mid-April through early June and in September or October but not in extreme summer heat. Postemergent herbicides do not prevent new weeds from growing.

Moss

• Mosses (Bryophyta), hornworts (Anthoceratophyta) and liverworts (Marchantiophyta) are small plants with no vascular tissues that grow in light green cushions or carpetlike forms. Usually, moss appears in moist areas where grass cannot grow, such as on rocks or under trees, but it can also spread into partially-shaded lawns. Improving environmental conditions is best for controlling moss, advises University of Rhode Island Extension. Prune tree canopies to allow sunlight in, and rake lawn grass to prompt turf thickening. Better soil drainage and air circulation keep excess water from pooling. Chemicals, such as ammonium or copper sulphate, may be somewhat effective for controlling actively growing moss but not for dormant plants.