Old habits die hard, and many homeowners mistakenly believe that bagging prevents turf disease and thatch buildup. In reality, grass clippings decompose within four days, as the tips of grass blades are 80 percent water. Overzealous fertilizing and irrigating create turf problems; mulching doesn't spread disease. "Grasscycling," or pushing grass clippings back into the turf, acts as a natural fertilizer by providing the lawn with nitrogen and small amounts of potassium and phosphorus.
Most mowers now come with mulching blades, but you can still "grasscycle" with older mowers and basic, side-discharge mowers. Retailers sell retrofit kits to equip mowers with mulching blades, or you can sharpen basic blades and cut the grass more frequently. Remove no more than one inch of the grass blade when you mow. If your mower will not operate without the bagging attachment, cover your garden with the clippings or create a compost pile. Only use the bagger and send your clippings to the landfill as a last resort. According to the Environmental Protection Agency, grass, leaves and branches constitute 18 percent of all landfill waste and stress landfills that are near capacity.
Mowing your lawn too short produces undesirable consequences, including shallow roots that cannot withstand drought. Taller grass blades create shade, reduce weed germination and lock moisture in the sod. Do not mow wet turf, as your clippings will clump in piles across the yard. If your lawn has cool-season grasses such as fescue and ryegrass, set your mower at 3 inches. If you live in the South and have warm-season grasses such as zoysia or St. Augustine, set your mower at 2 inches.
If your lawn develops a thick mat of thatch from improper fertilizing practices, grass clippings will not reach the sod. Remove thatch as soon as you notice a buildup more than a half-inch tall. Retailers and rental companies offer power rakes and dethatching attachments for riding mowers.