Determine the type of grass you have in order to tailor your maintenance schedule to meet its specific needs. Observe the color and natural height of the grass, along with its texture. Determine whether the grass grows in the sun or shade. Pull out a few blades of grass and make detailed observations, recording your findings along the way. Pull out some grass clippings and take them to your local nursery or turf grower for identification. Compare your findings with reference books or use an online identification tool to help identify the grass type.
Mow the grass high, instead of low, and avoid cutting more than one-third the height. Keep the blades of your lawn mower sharp, as dull blades damage the grass and increase susceptibility to diseases. Allow the grass clippings to fall on the grass instead of collecting them in a grass collection bag attached to the mower. Earthworms and other beneficial bugs decompose the clippings in the soil, enriching its quality.
Establish a good irrigation schedule to provide your grass timely and controlled water whenever needed. Measure the lawn sprinkler’s system output in gallons per hour and set each irrigation session to the minimum amount of water the particular grass type needs. For most grasses, this is 1 to 2 inches of water every week, or enough to soak 6 to 10 inches of soil. Because of differences in water requirements of plants, make sure you have a separate irrigation line for grass. Water the grass infrequently but deeply instead of light, frequent watering.
Irrigate the lawn early, preferable between 5 a.m. and 8 a.m. so the sun dries excess moisture on grass blades, reducing the chances of fungal diseases and pest infestations.
Fertilize the lawn according to its requirements for retaining its color and encourage healthy roots. Most home lawns benefit from fertilizer applications two times a year – in fall (August or September) and end of fall (October to December). Follow label directions for fertilizer rates according to the size of the lawn.
Aerate compacted soils once a year using an aerator or spiked shoes to create holes a few inches apart. Ideally, aerate the soil before the fall fertilization program.
Dethatch the lawn with a power rake to remove the accumulated layer of plant debris between the base of the grass and soil surface. Excessive thatch inhibits water and nutrient absorption, prevents sunlight penetration and provides a safe haven for pests and insects.
Adopt natural or organic pest-control options, such as microbial pesticides and insecticidal soaps that do not damage beneficial soil bugs. If you must use chemical alternatives, apply spot treatments instead of broadcasting chemicals over the lawn.