Centipede grass forms a dense turf of yellow green color. Leaf blades typically are 15 to 30 mm long and 2 to 4 mm wide, sparsely hairy and give the grass a coarse texture. Inflorescence is 3 to 5 inches long, purplish and somewhat flattened. The grass spreads with creeping stolons. The stolons are slender, branching, send out roots at nodes and culminate in a slender flowering stem.
Centipede grass can be established by seeding. Adequate seedbed preparation is extremely important. To ensure uniform distribution when broadcasting or spreading seed by hand, mix 1/3-lb. seed with 1 gallon sand and evenly distribute it over 1,000 square feet. Centipede grass also can be established as sod. This usually is done in May or June. The soil should be worked, fertilized, leveled and thoroughly watered before the sod is laid. Follow a proper watering regimen to ensure that the sod establishes well.
The grass grows best in full sunlight but is moderately shade tolerant. Too much nitrogen should be avoided -- 1 lb. nitrogen fertilizer per 1,000 square feet annually generally is adequate. Centipede grass performs best on sandy, acidic soils with a pH between 5 and 6 where at least 40 inches of rainfall occur annually. This grass type is best suited for turf areas with little activity and will suffer under high traffic conditions.
Centipede grass is sensitive to iron deficiency. If the pH is above 7, iron deficiency will become an issue. Turf also may suffer from centipede grass decline, which can cause the lawn to exhibit small dead circles, delay green-up or begin to die under stress. Possible causes range from fairy ring fungus and ground pearl insects to the misuse of certain herbicides.
The centipede grass gets its common name from the short upright stems on the creeping stolons that resemble the invertebrate of the same name.