Break the ground to a depth of 6 inches with a shovel or rototiller. Remove weeds, roots and debris from the site. Collect 2 cups worth of soil from five different spots. Submit the sample to your county cooperative extension office for analysis. The lab report you receive will indicate how much lime, if any, the soil needs for a higher pH. You will also get a fertilizer recommendation.
Broadcast the amount of lime and fertilizer recommended on the soil test report over the tilled ground. Cover that layer with 2 to 4 inches of manure or other organic matter. Incorporate everything into the soil 6 inches deep with the shovel or tiller.
Rake the seedbed surface to smooth it out. Slope the ground away from buildings to protect foundations from irrigation water.
Split the grass seeds in half. Add the first half to a spreader. Broadcast them east to west. Pour the rest of the seeds into the spreader. Sow them south to north perpendicular to the first half to prevent bare spots in the lawn.
Push a lawn roller over the seeded surface for good seed contact with the ground.
Cover the seeds with straw mulch to conserve moisture and prevent soil erosion until the roots develop. One straw bale is enough for 1,000 square feet.
Water the seeds at sowing. Maintain the soil moist to a depth of 2 to 4 inches to prevent the seeds from drying out. Give developing grass seedlings 1 inch of water weekly. Increase the irrigation frequency any time the young grass plants begin to wilt. Water an established lawn according to the moisture requirements of the species. Grass is established when you cannot uproot them by pulling on it.