To obtain an complete analysis of the make up of your soil, send a cup of soil to your local cooperative extension office for testing. Wait three weeks for results and soil amendment recommendations. You can also use a quick test to find out your soil type. Grab a handful of dirt and squeeze. Soil that crumbles in your hand is sand. If the soil is malleable, it is probably loam. When soil releases droplets of water, it is considered clay soil.
Many gardeners amend clay soil with organic materials such as peat. Peat moss increases the soil's ability to both retain and drain water from the soil. In addition, you may spread compost or well-rotted manure over the entire lawn and work it into the clay soil. Avoid spreading sand over your lawn to promote drainage. As soon as you water your soil, it will turn into the consistency of cement. You will end up having to remove the first couple of inches of soil and starting again.
Spread your soil amendment across the soil. The amount of organic material you need depends on the soil amendment you are using; for example, spread four bales of peat or 2 to 3 cubic yards of manure per 1,000 square feet, as suggested by the University of Rhode Island. If you're using finished compost, spread the amendment at a rate of 2 to 3 cubic yards per 1,000 square feet. Finished compost is dark in color and thoroughly decomposed.
Work your organic soil amendment into the first 4 to 6 inches of top soil with a tiller. Throughly mix the soil amendment in with the soil. Once you have worked the soil amendment into the soil, add lime and starter fertilizer to the soil. The amount of lime you need depends on your current soil pH. However, a rule of thumb is 50 lbs. of limestone per 1,000 square feet, according to the University of Rhode Island. Distribute a starter fertilizer that has a NPK amount of 5-10-5 at a rate of 20 lbs. per 1,000 square feet. Work into the first 2 to 3 inches of top soil.